Author: Charlotte Gill

Stranger than fiction

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Sweden has always been a popular destination for business travellers and tourists alike, but the reason for its appeal seems to have shifted. No longer revered solely for picture-perfect landscapes, clean air and gravad lax, the allure of the country is based around more sinister vibes these days, albeit mostly marked by fictitious menace. The worldwide success of the Millennium trilogy and the Wallander novels, penned by the late Stieg Larsson and Henning Mankell respectively, have set the phenomenon in motion. Both book series have been adapted for film and TV, reaching audiences and new fan bases well beyond Scandinavia. Indicative of how popular the books are, millions travel to Sweden to visit the sites and areas that feature within the action-laden stories.

What’s behind the success of Swedish crime fiction, and what defines the style of the nation’s writers? “The phenomenon didn’t arrive overnight; Henning Mankell and his Wallander books have been big in Germany for many years,” says Sören Bondeson, the author and fiction tutor credited with launching the careers of many successful Swedish crime novelists. “I believe that the strength of Swedish crime writers partly stems from their ability to carefully portray small Swedish towns in the middle of nowhere, which may appear exotic to readers outside Scandinavia. Åsa Larsson, a crime writer at the forefront of the movement, champions a style that focuses a lot on detail, which is something that defines the work of many of her fellow Swedish talents,” he observes. Speaking of the work of Henning Mankell and Stieg Larsson in particular, Bondeson believes their success owes to the fact that they didn’t set out to write bestsellers initially, unlike many American writers. “Typically, the storylines of the books are quite left-wing and they are created in an organic manner, which allows the narrative to unfold at a rather slow pace.”

Experience Stockholm a la Salander and Blomkvist
Fiction pilgrimage is by no means a new phenomenon – Dan Brown’s blockbuster novels have attracted an impressive following and his books, of which the most famous is The DaVinci Code, have generated a string of guided trails in cities from Washington to Rome. The interest surrounding the Millennium trilogy is no less significant. Over 60 million readers have devoured Stieg Larsson’s Millennium books – or as the volumes are also called, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo series – that chart the intriguing and sometimes life-threatening adventures of journalist Mikael Blomkvist and daring computer hacker Lisbeth Salander.

Inviting fans of the saga to relive the story within its authentic setting, Stadsmuseet (the city museum) in Stockholm first launched guided “Millennium tours” in 2008. The walks, which take about two hours and are held in Swedish, English and French, have proven spectacularly popular, drawing crowds from Scandinavia and beyond. The tourist-friendly format of these on-foot adventures may smack of gimmickery to critics, but even non-Millennium devotees would find that the city walk serves as a good introduction to Stockholm itself. Winding its way through both commercial and more residential areas, the trail stretches from Södermalm – where most of the action takes place – and through to Odenplan in Vasastan. The geographical span gives the visitor a good grasp of the city, and it touches both on its historical and contemporary identities.

One key spot of the walk is journalist » Mikael Blomkvist’s apartment located on Bellmansgatan in Södermalm, a bohemian and hip part of Stockholm favoured by the creative set. The home of the adventure-hungry Millennium editor is a bright 65sq m attic apartment with views over the bay of Riddarfjärden, Gamla Stan and the city hall of Stockholm. Actor Michael Nyqvist, who plays Mikael Blomkvist in the Swedish film adaptations, lives not far from his alter ego’s residence on Södermalm. “It’s happened twice that I have barged straight into Millennium tour groups, and each time I’ve run the other way as the situation has been too crazy to handle,” the actor told Swedish evening paper Aftonbladet after the first film had hit the cinema screens.

Progressing deeper into Södermalm, the cult pub, Kvarnen, forms an equally integral part of the story since it features as Salander and Blomkvists’s favourite haunt. Individuals in the real world may appreciate the establishment for its pleasant décor and tasty menu defined by traditional Swedish fare such as köttbullar (Swedish meatballs) and surströmming (fermented herring).

Tours in English are organised by Stadsmuseet, take about two hours and can be found at stadsmuseum.stockholm.se

For fiction mavens who prefer to distance themselves from fellow Steig Larsson fans, the museum offers a Millenum map that is available in the languages of English, Swedish, French Italian and Spanish.

Wallander puts Ystad on the tourist map
Stockholm indisputably is a definite draw in itself, and therefore it’s not so surprising that book worms travel from all over the world to embark on its popular Millennium tours. What’s more remarkable is that the pintsized destination that is Ystad, located 60 km south-east of Malmö, has become almost equally popular with international visitors as well.

What many of them have in common is a passion for the 11 Wallander novels published to date and the main character, the Ystad based detective Kurt Wallander. Every year, thousands of Wallander enthusiasts descend on the little locale every year, almost outnumbering its 17,000 regular inhabitants. Germans and Poles typically reach their destination by regular ferry services across the Baltic, while Japanese Mankell followers willingly endure a much longer journey to follow in the footsteps of their favourite detective. The sheer determination displayed is indicative of the power of Henning Mankell’s most famous series, which first appeared on Swedish bookshelves in 1991 with the launch of Mördare utan ansikte (Faceless Killers).

The attention Ystad has received as a result of the Wallander books and subsequent screen productions has certainly worked in its favour. But the little sleepy town appears nothing like its murder-prone, fictitious self. Miami Downtown it ain’t. Rather, it’s a medieval, postcard-pretty idyll of a spot, marked by cobbled streets and vividly painted cottages with thatched roofs. Of cultural significance, the locale is studded with a smattering of pre-historic sites and it’s also home to Scandinavia’s oldest fortress, which also plays a starring role in the novels. A number of worthy beaches add further to the charm of Ystad, making it a perfect holiday destination even if Kurt Wallander had never set his fictitious foot in town.

All that glitters

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The Neon Museum was established as a non-profit organisation in 1996 to collect and exhibit neon signs; the classic Las Vegas art form. Dedicated individuals from the private sector as well as corporate and government entities have worked tirelessly to promote the preservation of these national treasures and The Neon Museum’s mission is to collect, preserve, study and exhibit neon signs and associated artifacts whilst inspiring educational and cultural enrichment for diverse members of the international community.

The museum collection boasts over 150 donated and rescued signs. The core of this collection is contained in the Neon Museum Boneyard, a rambling park approximately two acres in size. Signs featured date from the late 1930s through to the early 90s and represent motels, local businesses, and celebrated casino resorts from throughout the Las Vegas Valley. While the Boneyard is not electrified, the photogenic collection offers a glimpse into the storied past of Las Vegas and its most memorable art form.

The collection
Each of the more than 170 signs in the collection can be used to tell a unique story about who created it, what inspired it, where and when it was made, and how it fits into the development of Las Vegas and its rich history. Changes and trends in design and technology are also illustrated in the pieces that range from the 1930s to the present day.

Most of the signs are exhibited in “The Boneyard” where they serve as inspiration to fascinated tour groups, students, historians and artists. Select pieces such as the familiar Hacienda Horse & Rider have been refurbished and installed as public art in downtown Las Vegas near the Fremont Street Experience at Third Street.

“The Boneyard”, is located just north of downtown. It is home to some of the most treasured and world-famous signs of Las Vegas – Caesars Palace, Binions, Golden Nugget, Silver Slipper, and, most recently, the Stardust. Guided tours of the Boneyard are offered twice daily, at 12 pm and 2 pm, by advance appointment only.

The Neon Museum is also restoring the » historic La Concha Motel lobby for use as its visitor’s centre, so that it can offer expanded public hours. An addition, the back of the building will include offices and other facilities. The La Concha, a swooping curvilinear structure, was designed by famed African-American architect Paul Revere Williams. The building is also listed on the City of Las Vegas Historic Register.

Preserving heritage
Public education, outreach, research, archival preservation and a grant-funded neon sign survey are but a few of the museum’s many projects. The museum also coordinates commercial photo and film shoots and partners with other cultural institutions to produce temporary exhibits.
The Neon Museum continuously looks to the future. Several active signs throughout Las Vegas have been pledged to the museum once they’re retired. This “Living Museum” project ensures these irreplaceable artifacts will be preserved for future generations to enjoy.
The Museum is devoted to preserving this aspect of Las Vegas and its design history and hopes to be a source of pride and education for the its residents, as well as to inform and inspire the national and international community with the magical neon architecture of Las Vegas. n

For more information please contact:
www.neonmuseum.org
info@neonmuseum.org
Tel: 702-387-NEON (6366)

King of the road

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

F035_rtFor the motor-enthusiast on business in Germany, there’s one pitstop, albeit a slightly eccentric one, that’s well worth a visit for the ultimate in auto-emersion. With much charm, a dash of that quintessential 1920s vibe and an exclusive outlook into the oldtimer event hall of the Meilenwerk, the V8 Hotel guarantees visitors an exciting stay that will satisfy even the most avid of auto-aficionado. The former airport hotel was in the ‘Bauhaus’ style of architecture and is now a listed building, with all hotel rooms in the building being decorated faithfully to the style of the period. Car enthusiasts will lose themselves in the Trading Hall, which is full of classic cars and collectors material.

Car specialists, technical enthusiasts, and those who appreciate the aesthetics and nostalgia of the motor car can find all they are looking for under one roof. The Meilenwerk offers the car enthusiast a broad spectrum of experiences in technology and the fascinating world of mobility. Collectors may also park their car one of the ‘glass boxes’ and have it serviced by professional restorers and car-care experts.

Spend a night in one of the gloriously themed rooms, from under the stars at a drive-in cinema to a gas station in a converted VW Beetle bed. Step up on to the winners’ podium in the racing room or enjoy a rain-water shower in the car wash room – the V8 camping room even provides the feeling of sitting in the open countryside.

Sidi Kaouki: A breath of fresh air on the windy coast

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

t took two and a half hours to reach the Berber village of Sidi Kaouki and by the time we got there it was dark. There were no street lights (and, indeed, no streets, other than the main road) and a crescent moon added little by way of illumination.

The joy of arriving at night, of course, is waking to a new world the next morning – and in this respect Sidi Kaouki was a bit of a disappointment: stones, great and small, as far as the eye could see. No trees, no grass, just a few scrubby bushes, lots of low stone walls demarcating plots of stone-flecked earth and a few tumbled-down stone dwellings. It had the air of a vast archaeological site in mid-excavation.

And then something strange happened. It was as if someone had adjusted the focus. Shapes began to form. There was a small boy with three cows, flicking his stick at their bony rumps; an older boy was leading two camels, delicately picking their way down a narrow lane. There were horses and chickens; a dog trotted by with its tail in the air. I turned and there was the beach: a vast expanse of ginger sand pounded by the Atlantic. This landscape wasn’t barren at all, it was full of life; and beautiful, in a stark sort of way.

Ninety-three miles north of Agadir and 17 miles south of Essaouira, Sidi Kaouki is named after a 19th-century marabout, a wandering holy man or teacher, and his dilapidated shrine by the sea still attracts pilgrims. More recently, the cast and crew of Sex and the City descended on the beach to shoot a scene for the second SATC movie (the beach was doubling as Dubai). But if Sidi Kaouki is known to outsiders at all, it’s for its near-perfect conditions – together with Essaouira and nearby Cap Sim – for board and kite surfing (which, by the way, is a clue to the climate here: warm and windy year-round).

But watersports aside, the village also makes a great base for combining the peace and quiet of a traditional Moroccan village with the chic souk-and-café culture of Essaouira, just along the coast. And surprisingly for such a tiny village, there is plenty of accommodation, including the luxurious Rebali Riads (five riads with communal pool, hammam, gardens and restaurant), which opened last year and where we were staying. In fact, so lovely is Rebali that we could have happily spent our » days sunbathing, reading and being scrubbed down in the hamman. But we were there to see something of Morocco, so after a breakfast of pancakes and honey, we set off for Essaouira.

On the way we stopped at Diabat, home of the Jimi Hendrix Café. Hendrix visited the area in 1969, though he did not, as legend suggests, write Castles Made of Sand about the old fort half-buried in the dunes here, nor did he ever own the land on which the café stands (or, indeed, form a local commune with Timothy Leary, buy a hotel in Essaouira or try to adopt a Moroccan boy). But Diabat is proud of its Hendrix connection and it seemed churlish to quibble.

A mile or two farther on stands Essaouira. With its wide boulevards, palm trees and mix of Moroccan and French architecture, it looks like a blustery version of the Côte d’Azur. Indeed, much of the city was rebuilt in the 18th century by a Frenchman, Théodore Cornut (with help from other architects, including an English renegade responsible for the harbour).

Its name was changed from Mogador to Souira, “The Small Fortress”, then to Es-Saouira, “The Beautifully Designed”. These days, it’s known variously as La Ville du Vent (every day’s a bad hair day in Essaouira), The Blue City and The City of Cats. Behind the old city walls is the medina – a Unesco World Heritage Site – where things became more North African. A warren of narrow cobbled streets crammed with tiny shops, it’s a more compact, more manageable version of the medina in Marrakesh. The hassle factor is low and good-humoured, and a firm “no thank you” generally does the trick.

Fortified by several glasses of sweet mint tea (known as Berber whiskey), we bargained for Thuya wood magic boxes, silk scarves and silver jewellery. A Berber with a magnificent blue turban invited us into his shop to see his jewellery. We said we’d come back “maybe later”. “People who say ‘maybe later’ never come back,” he said reproachfully.

We made our way down to the harbour, where a carpet of blue fishing boats almost completely obscured the water. It was hotter here and we held our breath as we passed gulls picking over the stinking scraps of the day’s catch. Suddenly we found ourselves longing for some peace and quiet. So we gave the city’s 16th-century fort a miss and made our way back along the beachfront to Sidi Kaouki for a swim, a treatment in the hammam, and an early dinner.

There is a dining area at Rebali but most guests prefer to eat in their own riad. There is no choice, though guests are consulted about likes and dislikes earlier in the day, and it is very good value at £12 a head. That night it was lamb tagine (and a bottle of Moroccan rosé), which we ate to the chirruping of crickets and the rumbling of the sea as it pounded the beach. When we’d finished, we climbed the stairs to our roof terrace and had a nightcap under a vast black sky studded with stars.

Sooner or later every visitor to Morocco has to get on a camel. It’s practically the law. The day of our camel trek dawned bright and breezy and our camels, we were informed, were ready for us. Getting on is the second most difficult bit. Staying on while the camel jerks to its feet is even harder. But after that it’s a piece of cake and there we were – sailing up the empty beach, pretending to be noble nomads (in my case, the illusion slightly spoiled by the sarong from the swanky Cotton Club in Mustique tied around my head).

Rebali had arranged for us to have lunch in a fisherman’s hut, a delicious goat tagine cooked by one of the fishermen. Cooking for tourists is, no doubt, a useful sideline: it’s easy to forget, as we bargain for trinkets and gleefully note how cheap everything is, what a poor country this is, particularly in rural areas. Electricity only reached Sidi Kaouki in 2006 and water still has to be collected from the village well (most of the hotels and restaurants have their own wells, as well as generators, an insurance against the frequent power cuts).

As our camels returned to Sidi Kaouki, we passed a little restaurant right on the beach, hung with shell mobiles and furnished in decorative Moroccan style. Its owner stood outside, grinning and brandishing a couple of plump fish. His restaurant had no name, he said proudly, and no address. It had no customers either. Then eight or nine people just seemed to materialise out of the haze. Where had everyone come from? Someone had readjusted that focus again.
©Telegraph Media Group, 2011

Head vs heart

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Israel is a divisive territory in more ways than one. The country is not only, at times, overtly segregationist in its foreign policy; choosing to erect a wall between itself and Palestine, but is also commonly subject to either ‘pro’ or ‘anti’ international discourse. Nevertheless, despite its continuingly controversial international standing, Israel’s current position as a leader in the field of medical research suggests that a new era of global cooperation – based on mutual, humanist aims rather than in response to a notoriously conflict-ridden regional circumstance – is imminent. Ironically, for a nation so heavily associated with its religion, it is Israel’s science, it seems, that could hold the key to strengthening its partnerships worldwide at this juncture in its national development.

Israel has for a long time enjoyed much economic success as a military and academic power, boasting one of the world’s most successful armies and with its universities consistently featured in the one hundred top universities in the world. Amongst the academic community worldwide, Tel Aviv University, Hebrew University and Technion are renowned for their accomplishments in the domain of physics. However, less publicised is the nation’s exceptional record as an innovator in the field of medical research. Since 2002, Israel has produced no less than five Nobel Prize-winning scientists and currently publishes among the most scientific papers per capita in the world. Furthermore, since 2000, Israel has been the global leader in stem cell research papers per capita also.

Furthermore, as recently as September 21st of this year, Dr Daniel Offen and Professor Eldad Melamed of the Felsenstein Medical Research Centre at Tel Aviv University announced that they are to launch clinical trials on a new technology that is thought to protect the human brain from neurodegenerative disorders such as Parkinson’s and ALS (amyotrophic lateral sclerosis), also known as Lou Gehrig’s disease. Commenting on why it is within this sector that Israel is the world innovator, Dr Offen noted that “we (Israeli medical scientists) don’t have the same ethical and religious problems here, especially with regards to embryonic research. Not only is stem cell research allowed Halachically (according to Jewish law), but it is considered a mitzvah (a good deed) because it saves lives.”

Leading Israeli scientists now hope that the trans-political nature of scientific innovation will enable the nation to build hitherto elusive and unstable international bridges and thus pave the way for greater intellectual and business interaction with global researchers and industries. It is, in fact, probable that the pioneering work of Israeli medical researchers, such as Dr Daniel Offen of the Felsenstein Medical Research Centre at Tel Aviv University, will prove invaluable to colleagues operating in not only other countries, but also in other industries. After all, the flourish of science in the ‘holy land’ presents a stark contrast to the common international perception of the country as a contentiously religious and morally dubious entity. Israel-led medical breakthroughs could thus pave the way for a world-wide perspectival shift away from Israeli politics and towards research and industry and, concomitantly, allow foreign investors to view the country in a new light; the state can subsequently metamorphose into a nation that is renowned for bringing together humanity under the banner of scientific progression.

Of course, whilst it would be a fallacy to suggest that the international medical community is politically neutral, nevertheless, it stands out amongst other industries in its continuing cooperation with Israel throughout various stages in the Middle Eastern conflict’s history. Despite the fact that 130 UK medical practitioners called for a boycott of the Israel Medical Association in 2007, the British Medical Association has never formally called for the IMA’s expulsion from the World Medical Association and continues to liaise and cooperate with leading Israeli researchers.

Nevertheless, the continuing failure of the ‘peace process’ (whereby the history of the phrase itself, in current usage, seems to highlight the lack of progress in the endeavour to stabilise the region) and the propensity of numerous other sections of the international community to boycott Israeli products and services in reaction to politico-ethical concerns, presents the nation with a seemingly unsolvable economic problem regarding foreign investment and collaboration.

Of course, even the decision to discuss Israel in a context outside of the discursive parameters of the Middle Eastern conflict is a political one. Let me be clear: to shift focus from the state’s foreign policy to its academic and business dimension is not to negate the former category. A friend of mine recently suggested that it is Israel’s status as a global innovator in medical research that has shielded this sector from the international boycotts, which have plagued other business and educational Israeli institutions.

A discussion of something as specialist as Israel’s medical research sector requires a plethora of disclaimers, justifications and clarifications regarding even the most seemingly straightforward references and terms. Not least, the term ‘Israel’. The most recent protests in Egypt, whereby the Israeli embassy was targeted, reveal an especially concerning development with regard to Israel’s diplomatic relations when considered in light of the fact that Israel signed a peace agreement with Egypt as far back as 1979. This new, more overtly violent and vocal wave of anti-Israel (and, some may argue, anti-Semitic) sentiment is likely to be a concern for Israeli PM Benjamin Netanyahu, as well as for medical researchers for whom international connections are integral.

For many, the decision to discuss ‘Israel’, rather than ‘Palestine’ is already a political statement, especially when, once again, the latter has applied to the UN for recognition of its statehood. Within a discourse of the Middle East that is so often defined by the binary oppositions of ‘pro’ and ‘anti’, the complex psychology of doing business with Israel becomes ever more apparent. Thus, a shift in international perceptions with regard to Israel’s global role would, furthermore, enable other Israeli academic and business sectors to collaborate and trade with other nations; a development that would surely improve the country’s diplomatic and business relationships in the future.

With growing internal descent over rising living standards, and increasing international pressure for a solution to the current political deadlock, Benjamin Netanyahu’s administration may be hard-pressed to find a lasting remedy for Israel’s business reputation abroad. One thing is for sure; Israel’s medical industries have so far managed to thrive during the state’s tumultuous 63-years, a fact that demonstrates solid investment for potential international business partners.

Hitting the piste

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The simplest way to reduce our ecological impact in the Alps, logically, would be to close down the ski industry altogether. Yet, with a thriving contemporary culture and extensive history of Alpine tourism, this is an unwelcome option. Consequently, our attitude and behaviour need to be adjusted if we are to protect our mountain playgrounds.

Daunting, yet fragile; Europe’s most imposing mountain range offers a spectacular panoramic on all sides. Peaks, ridges, glaciers and foot hills have collectively inspired, challenged and claimed innumerable intrepid travellers. Initially the upper middle classes went looking for adventure and fame. Today Alpine tourism draws a host of extreme sport enthusiasts, holiday makers and lovers of nature.

From mountaineering to skiing, the Alps have had an increasing number of visitors since the 19th century. Individuals have gone to test their skills, their bravery, or just to enjoy the magnificent scenery. Yet extensive travel, over use and the wasteful behaviour of visitors has also damaged the environment. The question then, for mountain lovers, is what can we do to protect the delicate eco system we play in?

Our playground is at risk. The mountains are suffering from the effects of climate change. Glaciers are receding, changes in snowfall are recorded and warmer winters are threatening. There is also localised damage. In the ski season thousands of people flock to the slopes. Motorway pistes, carved out of the mountain, destroy vegetation. Rogue back-country riders; carve their signature lines into the nesting grounds of vulnerable fauna whilst those injured off the piste call out the fuel-guzzling emergency helicopter.

Resorts burn immense amounts of energy. Heating for hotels and chalets, ski lifts, motor transport for guests and rescue services all consume resources. Water is also expended in large quantities. Snow cannons pump water from the reservoirs to cover the piste in films of rough snow crystals – water that local villages rely on in the summer. On top of this the locals have to deal with waste left behind by a season of holidaymakers and maintain the mountain all year round. Mountain sport culture, in its fledgling years, thought little of the damage done by tourists to the previously undisturbed heights. In the Himalayas years of accumulated rubbish still sit at the base and along the main routes of classic peaks. White glacial faces are littered with luminous tents and glinting oxygen bottles, an open air museum recording expedition equipment through the ages.

Today though, attitudes are slowly changing, as people become more aware of global and local environmental problems. As an example, in an attempt to clean up sites such as the base of Everest, authorities now impose a weight-for- weight system. An expedition is expected, after it has consumed its own supplies, to remove an equal amount of waste from the mountain.

The Alps have not suffered environmental damage in the same way as Everest. Nevertheless, the traffic that passes through the region annually creates a vaster turnover of waste. The alpine tourist industry caters for millions of holiday makers per year. This consumes huge resources and causes long lasting disruption to the local eco system.

As awareness of environmental issues grows, tourism and travel have become topics of moral and ethical debate. Tourism in the Alps, especially the ski industry, is vulnerable to criticism. It is ironic that the people who love the mountains are also threatening this delicate and precious eco system.
Conscientious organisations are trying to cater to these slowly shifting mentalities and the desire for greener holidays. There are now independent eco-chalets, those who organise low impact overland travel and tours; these little gems are an example of positive change. Nevertheless, they are a small percentage of the industry. The majority of tour operators offer cheap flights, cheap accommodation and take little responsibility.

La Source is one such gem. Out of this company Saskia Anley, eco-tourism veteran and entrepreneur, runs Green Adventure Retreats, providing low budget, low impact, holistic adventure sports holidays, which aim to inspire a respect for the environment and self. These retreats offer people the chance to view the mountains differently, through cross-country skiing, snow shoeing, evenings of yoga, and healthy eating.

Based around the stunning Samoens valley in the French Alps, these holidays are refreshingly aimed at the lower economic spectrum of alpine tourists. The accommodation is sometimes simple and not particularly ‘eco’. But it is the mentalities and philosophies behind the retreats that are the attraction.
Four years of running an eco-chalet in the same region has also taught Saskia the restrictions of this type of tourism. “Having an eco house is all very well…but it is very expensive.” Especially with a renovation, she adds. Feeling that this limits the industry, she now concentrates on advising and guiding people towards alternative winter alpine activities. This way Saskia can reach more people and do more good in protecting the immediate environment. If you are interested in an affordable, holistic, ski package over New Year check out greenadventureretreats.com.

Ski resorts attract a diverse array of tourists; middle-class holiday makers and students coming for weeks at a time. Local people, come up from the cities just for the weekends often staying in owned apartments. There are also the season workers who work hard, play hard of course ride hard (with sleeping recommended but not essential).

This is largely a nomadic society; they stay for short periods of time and do not have to witness the damage they cause. This attitude of shifting responsibility is a fundamental problem in changing attitudes and behaviours in the mountains. The Respect the Mountains director; Aukje van Gervn notes that “A lot of people have no idea what their impact is in the mountain areas they visit, or they do know deep down, but tend to care less about places that are ‘not their back yard’. Respect the Mountains is a non-profit organisation » dedicated to promoting sustainable mountain tourism and building awareness in tourists (respectthemountains.com). Their goal is to encourage all areas of the tourist industry to reduce their environmental impact.

This organisation creates partnerships with businesses and organisations such as La Source, forming a network of like-minded companies. It also runs the event series Envirotrek, which combines sport activities with environmental education and local clean-up projects. The organisation encourages all mountain tourists, young and old, and the mountain industry to adopt the Respect the Mountains’ Seven Ways. By following these simple yet effective actions, all sectors of the mountain tourism industry are encouraged to reduce their impact, whilst building a sustainable future.

Aukje believes that creating awareness in people is the key to creating a sustainable future. She says, “The bottom line is that they just want to keep having a good time. We need to show them that sustainable choices can go hand- in-hand with enjoying the mountains and if they want these environments to continue to exist, they need to change their behaviour and make different choices.”

There is a web of organisations and individuals who are concerned with spreading environmental awareness in our snowy retreats. Respect The Mountains and Chamonix based Not for Profit organisation Mountain Riders both run educational events, conferences on sustainability and end of season clean up’s; popular with all ages. Closer to home the ski club of Great Britain publishes an online ‘Green Resort Guide’ www.skiclub.co.uk/skiclub allowing you to research which resorts recycle, have proper sewage management or a green building policy.

Online you can also find well respected ski journalist Patrick Thorn’s website: saveoursnow.com. Here Thorn shares his knowledge and experience on the acute effects of climate change in the mountains with resort owners, organisations and individuals. Save our Snow believes over all that more sustainable behaviour all year round is vital, travel being an obvious example. This annual awareness then should extend to ski holidays.

Save Our Snow draws attention to ski resorts, tour operators and individual accommodation providers who offer varying degrees of sustainable practice and respect for environmental issues. The list they offer, it is good to see, includes some large tour operators. If these big fish have serious environmental ethics, or are merely following the marketing tide of ‘green’ practice remains a question.

Big name, tour operator Crystal, whilst relying on air travel, promotes carbon offsetting. Competitor, Nelson, aims to minimise energy use in their UK base as well as in resort. While Alpine Pearls choose to operate in resorts involved in sustainable development. Only a tiny percent, however, offer No-Fly holidays such as Peak Retreats, or offer subsidies for over land travel such as Green Adventure Retreats.

With airplanes arguably causing over five times the amount of carbon dioxide equivalent emissions, per person, than the train , a lot of ‘green policies’ seem to be avoiding the most obvious issue; travellin there.

For a Brit travelling by train or car, the most economically, environmentally conscious, ski destination is the French Alps. The Eurostar from London runs a direct Snow Train to Moûtiers, Aime-la-Plagne or Bourg-St-Maurice that can get you there over night or through the day. It is also possible to get the Euro star to Paris and then pick a TGV to other destinations in the Alps. It’s a painful thing to accept, but as a tourist be glad: the French outstrip the British on all things concerning public transport!

When I arrive on the sleeper train to an icy alpine morning, at 6:10am, it is important to know that the resort busses are synchronised with the arriving trains. It is also good to know, as you mumble away in I-have-just-woken-up-French, that they keep running until all passengers have been catered for.

The French train systems are great. They are efficient, well maintained and designed for expansion. Unlike the British train system which was sold off to private companies in the 1980s: tracks one way, trains the other. The French put utility over business. The ideology being that a smooth running transport network equals a smooth running economy; money goes back into the system. All of this suits the tourist well when fleeing our own chaotic transport system for a little Alpine calm.

To facilitate increasing interested in overland travel, the environmentally conscious travel writer Richard Hammond has set up the informative greentraveller.co.uk. People can book through the website, or independently through Eurostar and the TGV if they want to navigate the websites for potential discounts.
Still, you may argue, the train takes longer? Perhaps it is this concern with time that is the problem and not the train? Anthropologist David Harvey suggested in the 1980s that the speeding up of economic and social processes has shrunk the globe. He points out that subsequently the actions of humans have ceased to be constrained by distance and time. The knock on effects of this speeding-up-of-the-pace-of-life means that people expect and want a high-speed-life, forgetting that it is actually quite nice to be able to enjoy time for its own sake.

For the Alps and other veteran ski resorts, what we can do is to adapt our practices and renovate our structures. We are learning, from experience, what not to do, as well as what is best for the local community and environment. This knowledge can also be used in developing resort areas, threatened by a replication of the same mistakes. In Kashmir, for example, a small team of Western entrepreneurs are helping construct an environmentally aware and sustainable ski industry. Run by the local community, they hope to bring revenue to the area without the imposing presence, and fly-by-night mentalities, of big tour operators. n

The business class ‘bag’ lady

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

I am not a good coach traveller and I began to have palpitations at the thought of the journey. I decided to look at a map of the area and discovered that there was another airport 30 minutes away from the destination hotel. I contacted the organiser and asked if I could arrange another flight for the return journey and at least that way I would not have to endure the coach twice. The organiser said that was fine and so I went ahead and booked a return flight.

I checked in for my Business Class seat which was all very relaxing and quite civilised. The check-in staff only gave my suitcase a casual sideways glance as the bag hit the scales and quivered at 20 kilos.

I had a smooth flight with a meal and a complimentary drink and embarked on the long coach journey. I reckoned that if I could sleep it would stop me worrying about feeling ill. However, there was no chance of that happening as the organiser said “you must sit next to a business person and speak English all the way to the hotel so they can improve their English conversational skills.”

At the end of the week and as recognition for our hard work we were presented with delicious cans of olive oil and other local delicacies. Along with other frippery I had collected during the week I realised that my suitcase was now fully loaded. I felt very happy with myself as I watched my associates embark on their six-hour coach journey through an uninteresting landscape as I stepped into a taxi to the other airport a short hop away.

I stood in the check-in queue and when it was my turn the assistant said, “Madam your suitcase is 20kg and you can only take 15kg plus 10kg of hand luggage”. He then asked to weigh my hand luggage, which was only 4kg. The combined weight was 24kg, so 1kg under the combined total. The check-in assistant advised me to remove 5kg or stump up £20 per kilo.

I said I would remove some items and dragged my bag to the side. I was now feeling hot and bothered as I tentatively opened my suitcase trying to stop the contents spilling onto the airport floor for everyone to stare at. I realised I could not take out the olive oil because of the recent restrictions for carrying liquids. I pulled out my jeans and jumpers as they were heavy. The suitcase was reduced to 15 kilos, but I now had two pieces of hand luggage. The transference of luggage seems like a ridiculous system now and is only perhaps as a purely profit making exercise.

I stood at the check-in like some sad bag lady. I now had two bags full of clothes when I should only have one. I proceeded to security and then panicked more as I approached the boarding gate. I tucked one bag under my arm and held the other bag in front of me, kept my head down and proceeded to the aircraft. I had made it! Complete with my bag of jumble. I flopped into my seat and thought this is certainly not the way I want to travel. Should I have endured the six-hour coach journey for a more civilised business- class flight?

I suppose the question is what has happened to the luggage system? Bring back the old days when the clothes remained in the suitcase and the only item in the aircraft hat rack was the litre of gin from duty free.

Presenter and Travel Writer Jayne Watkins has had over 30 years Travel Industry experience which includes retail, airline and sales.

The final frontier

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

If you’ve ever dreamed of space travel, here is your chance. Journey into the secret world of the Russian Space programme with this one-of-a-kind travel experience pioneered and designed by MIR founder, Douglas Grimes. On this exclusive programme designed for a maximum of 20, guests journey outside of Moscow to Star City, the formerly-secret training facility for Soviet cosmonauts, where today space travellers from all over the world prepare for their flights. Here, travellers can explore the Mir Space Station Simulator, see the Hydrolab where Zero-G training takes place, view the largest centrifuge in the world, and experience the Soyuz – TMA Simulator. (Travellers may partake of optional Cosmonaut training experiences including a Zero-G flight, which Doug has personally taken on two occasions).

Next, participants fly to the steppe of Kazakhstan, to the site of the massive Baikonur Cosmodrome. At this Russian space launch facility, guests have the opportunity to witness the manned launch of the Soyuz spacecraft on its way to relieve the crew of the International Space Station (ISS). Back in Moscow, travellers take in the classic sights such as the Moscow Kremlin and the Terem Palace before witnessing the Soyuz – ISS docking at Mission Control Center, an event that very few have experienced in such a personal way. This once-in-a-lifetime 10-day trip is $13,995 and departs between September 20-29, 2012. Optional pre or post-tour extensions are available. Optional Cosmonaut Training experiences include:

Centrifuge
Experience up to 4Gs on a familiarisation ride on the world’s largest centrifuge, the TsF-18. Simply put, the centrifuge is a long arm with a capsule on one end where the cosmonaut trainee sits. Used for checking and improving cosmonauts’ G-load tolerance, the TsF-18 can be described as a gigantic amusement park ride.

Zero gravity flight
Take the ride of your life on a parabolic zero-G simulation flight. Float, soar, cartwheel and hang weightless in the padded cabin of an Ilyushin-76 military transport aircraft as crew members stand by to assist. One of the most exciting and enjoyable of the cosmonaut training exercises, the zero-G flight puts a huge smile on the faces of everyone involved. This activity requires a minimum of six participants.

Orlan space suit training
Don a Russian-engineered Orlan space suit, created especially for spacewalks. These are the suits used by cosmonauts when they leave the International Space Station to perform experiments or routine maintenance. The Orlan DMA has a rigid torso and flexible arms and is entered by a rear hatch in its backpack. Since it is designed for use in zero gravity, it is extremely heavy, so during cosmonaut training, the suit is suspended from a boom to simulate zero gravity. You will go through an actual training session that the current Cosmonauts and Astronauts perform. Learn to open and close hatches and complete a series of operations designed to simulate typical space tasks. The training will include explanations and preparations, donning an Orlan space suit, performing various tasks and maneuvers, and post-training discussion.

Trip itinerary

Days 1-2: Depart USA/Arrive Moscow
Depart USA. Arrive in Moscow, transfer to a deluxe hotel. Dine with a guest from the Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center and admire Red Square at night.

Day 3: Moscow
Visit the Yuri Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center (GCTC) in the once-classified Star City and now the premier training facility for Russian cosmonauts and foreign astronauts.
Explore the MIR Space Station simulator and visit the Soyuz-TMA integrated simulator and the ISS mock-up. At the massive hydro lab, learn how crews acquire the skills to walk in space. The world’s largest centrifuge, used for simulating G-loads, is on the programme as well. Visit the Star City Museum, containing space vehicles, simulators, space suits and a reproduction of Yuri Gagarin’s office.
Note: Upon arrival, a Star City physician will also conduct physical exams for those who have signed up for the next day’s optional cosmonaut training activities.

Day 4: Moscow/optional cosmonaut training day
Today, those taking part in optional cosmonaut training activities depart for GCTC again early in the morning. The others head outside of Moscow for a tour of the Monino Air Museum, a coveted stop for anyone interested in aviation. Admire the famous Tupelov Tu-95 – a huge Cold War bomber called the “Bear” – plenty of MiGs and Yaks and the largest helicopter in the world, the Mil M-12. Returning to the city, visit the Cold War Museum Bunker, built to withstand a nuclear attack. Enjoy an evening lecture.

Day 5: Moscow/fly to Baikonur
Transfer to Chkalovsky Air Base to board the special flight for launch participants and witnesses going to Baikonur Cosmodrome, on the Kazakh steppe. This evening enjoy a lecture. The giant Soyuz rocket, ferrying astronauts and cosmonauts to the International Space Station, is launched here. Stay at the Hotel Sputnik or similar lodgings.

Day 6: Baikonur
Observe the early morning roll-out of the Soyuz Rocket. Follow the Soyuz to the launch pad site together with the press, military personnel, cosmonauts and their relatives. View the main launch pad, the Gagarin Start, where the Sputnik launches took place, and mingle with the press and other guests. Visit the Baikonur Museum, the Gagarin and Korolev living apartments, and the monument to the dawning of the Space Age.

Day 7: Baikonur
Tour the Buran hangar where the rockets are assembled, and visit the Energia and Proton launch pads. This afternoon enjoy VIP seating at the ISS Crew Press Conference at the Cosmonaut Hotel. Here is your chance to ask any burning questions you may have of the next ISS crew.

Day 8: Baikonur/Launch date of the Soyuz/fly to Moscow
Today is the day of the manned launch of the Soyuz to the International Space Station. Witness the process before, during and after the launch. Experience behind-the-scenes events, including the send-off from the Cosmonaut Hotel, and the Space Crew ready-to-go official report. Then proceed to the special VIP viewing area to witness the power of the launch while rubbing shoulders with generals, cosmonauts, celebrities and journalists. After celebrating the launch, transfer to the airport for the flight back to Moscow.
NOTE: The order of events for all of the days in Baikonur may be moved around to coincide with the launch-time window)

Day 9: Moscow
Begin with a special visit to the Kremlin and Armory Museum, including tickets for a look inside the Diamond Fund. Inside the Kremlin’s fortress walls are palaces, cathedrals, government buildings and the Armory Museum, which houses Russia’s national treasures. The Diamond Fund, by special arrangement, is an exclusive collection of “crown valuables,” jewellery pieces made for the czars and the royal court, including imperial regalia such as crowns and bejeweled scepters.

After lunch, visit the UNESCO-listed Novodevichy Convent and Cemetery. Such luminaries as Gogol, Chekhov, Prokofiev, Eisenstein and Khrushchev are buried here, as well as a number of cosmonauts.

Day 10: Moscow/mission control
Today transfer to Korolev and gather in a VIP seating gallery at Mission Control Center for the live satellite feed of the Soyuz docking. This afternoon – or this morning, depending on the docking schedule – visit the Energia Space Museum, displaying Yuri Gagarin’s original landing module, the spacecraft from which Alexei Leonov took the world’s first space walk, and a full-scale mock-up of the Soyuz-Apollo spacecraft. Celebrate your exploration into the Russian Space programme tonight with a gala farewell dinner.

Day 11: Depart Moscow
The tour concludes this morning with transfers to the airport for flights back to the US. An optional extension to St. Petersburg is also available for those wishing to explore the city. n

More information about this one-off exclusive trip can be obtained at www.mircorp.com

Delightful distractions

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Visit World Heritage sites
When it comes to Croatia, the past associated with this destination offers traditions, monuments, and locales that span a 13-century long history. The country is home to six World Heritage sites that attract a wealth of visitors. Tourists may delight in checking out the old city of Dubrovnik, Plitvice Lakes, the historic complex of Split and the Palace of Diocletian, the historic city of Trogir, the historic centre of Porec and the Euphrasian Basilica complex, and the cathedral of St. Jacob in Sibenik.

Explore national parks
Croatia is filled with natural beauty as it offers access to eight national parks, most of which are positioned about the Adriatic coast. To catch a breath of fresh air and admire the great outdoors, tourists will also enjoy access to ten nature parks and two exciting reserves. For instance, named after the Krka River, you will find a national park situated in central Dalmatian, which is filled with several lakes and breathtaking waterfalls. With a history dating back to 1445, the Roman Catholic Visovac Monastery can also be found inside.

Enjoy a Beach
Whether you enjoy sunbathing or wish to dip your toes in cool and refreshing waters, the beaches of Croatia are often overlooked, but a paradise awaits those who wish to explore. At Krk Island, Baska offers more than 30 beaches filled with pebble-covered sand. Pag Island offers Novalja, which is a private beach providing clear waters with a white sandy bottom. Zlatni Rat can be found on Brac Island, where the local culture blossoms amidst beautiful sea surroundings.

Check out the town squares
Visiting the main-squares throughout a destination allows tourists to learn about the area they are vacationing at. In Zadar, the Forum is considered the pulse of the city that not only features a popular meeting place, but also offers access to a notable spread of Roman ruins. In Split, the Peristil is situated just inside of the Silver Gate. During the summer, a notable festival is held where well-known opera performances take place. In Pula, the Temple of Augustus can be found, which dates back to the second century and now serves as a museum.

Wine and dine
Exploring the cuisine associated with a destination is a great way to learn more about the culture. In Croatia, breakfast consists of fruit brandy, coffee, pieces of bread, and rolls. Around 10am, locals often dine on meals such as stuffed sour cabbage and goulash. Lunch is typically considered the main meal of the day, where a bowl of soup precedes an entree of vegetables, salad, roasted meat, noodles, potatoes, and dessert. This meal is eaten from 10am to the late afternoon.
When it comes time for dinner, a light meal of snack-type selections, such as spicy grilled sausage or smoked ham, is common. In Croatia, coffee enthusiasts will also find delight in their visit because drinking the beverage is viewed as a highly social event. Coffee houses are commonly found throughout the country, open at various times, day or night.

(Re)birth of a nation

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Sixth century
Most accounts suggest that the Slavic tribes originally settled in the region in the sixth century, though there is evidence to suggest that settlement may have begun before this, in the late fifth century. King Samo established an empire of unified Slav tribes mid way through the sixth century, the first known political formation of Slavs.

10th century
The Hungarians begin to impose their authority over what was then called the Carpathian Basin, a region in east-central Europe. What is currently Slovakia became incorporated into what would eventually become the Kingdom of Hungary.

13th century
In the late 13th century and early 14th, after a Mongol invasion, various powerful landowners began to vie for land, building castles and separating the population into divisions. Around eight individual territories were formed, governed by powerful aristocrats.

16th/17th century
The Ottoman Empire occupies the Kingdom of Hungary (roughly equal to modern day Hungary). One third of that kingdom – which today is Slovakia – resisted Turkish occupation and became part of the Austrian Habsburg Monarchy instead. Pressburg (the modern-day capital of Slovakia, Bratislava) became, for the period between 1536 to 1848, the capital and the coronation city of Royal Hungary.

18th century
Gradually, the Slovak National Movement began to come forward, partially in an effort to establish a concrete national identity among the Slovak people. The movement began as a largely religious one, but grew to become more all-encompassing over time. Towards the end of the 18th century, the first codification of a Slovak literary language was completed.

19th century
In the Hungarian Revolution of 1848, Slovak nationalist leaders attempted to break away from the Kingdom of Hungary by supporting the Austrians. Decades of division and land struggles followed. In 1896, the concept of Czecho-Slovak Mutuality came to the fore, and support for the secession of Slovaks from Hungary grew.

20th century
After World War I broke out, the Slovaks were more determined than ever to break away the ruling dual-monarchy and form an independent republic alongside the Czechs. Austria-Hungary dissolved at the end of the war. In October 1918, Czechoslovakia was officially formed. After the Velvet Revolution in 1989, which ended communist rule in Czechoslovakia, the state was dissolved and Czechs and Slovaks went their separate ways on January 1st 1993.

21st century
In March 2004 Slovakia became a member of NATO and, soon after, the European Union. Between 2006-2007 the country was elected to a two-year term on the UN Security Council and in 2009, Slovakia accepted the Euro as its national currency.

The stuff of dreams

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

“The airplane is ready. ANA is ready. And, Boeing is ready.” No one believed Jim Albaugh, president and CEO of Boeing Commercial Airplanes, in August 2011. Why doubt him? After three years of delays, with numerous embarrassments arising along the way, the industry was convinced that this was just another empty promise.

When the Dreamliner project was first introduced to the world, Boeing scheduled the launch of the “revolutionary” commercial jet for the tail-end of 2007 – a launch date that was to see repeated postponements, each time due to reasons that only highlighted the project’s weaknesses and casted dark shadows of Boeing’s credibility. But it’s not only Boeing that has been badly affected by one of the most unfortunate spectacles in recent aviation history. The commercial airlines that have signed up to the Dreamliner project have suffered a great deal too. Before the project went off the rails, orders of nearly 900 planes flooded in. As the troubles mounted and the delay became longer and more serious, more and more cancellations came in, and the order book has reportedly taken a hammering.

Features
When introducing its new brainchild, Boeing promised that the plane would revolutionise the industry with a string of awe-inspiring features. The company’s target audience responded as well as Boeing had hoped, and commercial airlines from six of the world’s continents fell over themselves to get a slice of the state-of-the art pie, turning a blind eye to the $200m price tag. Before long, the Dreamliner had become the most popular model within the Boeing stable, racking up an unparalleled volume of sales and at record speed.

The elements that wowed the industry were many. Mostly, the invention received praise for its sustainable credentials, since it uses as much as 20 percent less fuel than other planes in the mid-size category. Making this possible, a composite material – a lightweight type of plastic– makes up 50 percent of the primary structure of the model, including the fuselage and wing. It’s this very aspect that makes the plane fuel-efficient. The plane also benefits from new engines from General Electric and Rolls-Royce, which also contribute to overall fuel efficiency improvements. Allegedly, these newly introduced engines represent a two-generation jump in technology. The way the Dreamliner has been built and designed has also furthered its green credentials, and new technologies have been developed to help Boeing and its suppliers meet particular efficiency targets. By manufacturing a one-piece fuselage section and, 1,500 aluminium sheets and 40,000-50,000 fasteners were successfully eliminated.

The plane measures 186 feet (57 metres) in length, with a wingspan of 197 feet (60 metres). It’s as tall as 56 feet (17 meters), and the vehicle is specifically conceived to fly long distances. Generally speaking, the Dreamliner is simpler in style than planes as we know them, having been stripped of gimmicks to offer increased functionality and efficiency. At the same time, the 787 displays an array of high-tech features such as “airplane health-monitoring systems” that allow the sophisticated vehicle to self-monitor its performance and report systems maintenance requirements to ground-based computer systems.
As would apply to any commercial airplane model, passenger comfort has to be taken into account. Among the features that may please air travellers are larger windows fitted with buttons allowing passengers to gradually darken their surroundings. The plane also boasts lower cabin altitude and cleaner air.

It’s arrived (finally)
Three years overdue and billions of dollars over budget, Boeing finally delivered the 787 Dreamliner to Japan’s All Nippon Airways (ANA). “We are rolling out the first delivery airplane, the first 787. That’s an amazing thing for those who have worked on the programme five, six, seven years, here at Boeing and our partners around the world,” said Scott Fancher, Boeing’s vice president and general manager of the 787 programme. Some would say a more modest launch speech would have been more appropriate, considering the public embarrassment the company has faced, and the fact that the delay has affected so many of its clients.

For ANA, Dreamliner’s most eager customer, it seems the wait was worth it. “As launch customer, we are delighted to be taking delivery of our first 787 Dreamliner. This aircraft will enable us to offer new standards of service and comfort to our passengers and will play an important role in our international expansion strategy as we seek to become Asia’s number one airline,” Shinichiro Ito, president and CEO of ANA Group, said.

It’s not surprising that ANA has stood by Boeing, even when the company plunged to its most desperate point with the project. The Japanese airline launched the 787 programme with a record-setting order of 50 airplanes in April 2004, and the final number reached 55. Taking an active role in the development of the plane, the airline has played a key role in guiding the design development of the Dreamliner. As such, ANA has become almost synonymous with the elusive plane, which explains why the Japanese player didn’t join its fellow airlines in choosing to opt-out of the never-ending Boeing saga.

Delay after delay
Since the summer of 2007, the timeslot the Dreamliner was originally meant to set out on its premiere outing, the project has been plagued with an assortment of disasters. One particularly media-friendly event was the onboard fire that occurred in November 2008 and brought to a halt crucial test flight proceedings for some time. Equally disastrous, further delays were caused by a 58-day machinists’ strike – action that certainly didn’t reflect well on Boeing. Coinciding with the uproar, Boeing also admitted that problems had arisen with the fasteners that hold the aircraft together. Apparently, a number of the crucial components had been incorrectly installed by suppliers on the four test jets. A string of additional hitches added to the postponements, mostly stemming from a shortage of parts and complications on the supplier side. As the pressure intensified, the US firm desperately tried to justify the sluggish progress of the project that seemed to stretch into eternity. “We now need to produce, install and test updated software and new electrical power distribution panels,” read one company statement; wording that would form thepersistent stream of announcements that were to follow.

Reputation in tatters
The delay in delivering the environmentally-friendly jet has made headlines all over the world, and there’s no doubt that the ongoing blunders have damaged Boeing’s reputation. Going forward, it’s also likely that the company will be under the microscope and ruthlessly scrutinised – no flaw will escape the attention of Dreamliner critics. Boeing, however, has chosen to look at the situation optimistically, and company spokespeople have said that they doubt the delay will affect Boeing’s 2010 full-year results. Painting a bleaker picture, each announcement indicating trouble at Boeing has seen the company’s share prices fluctuating, and the markets have followed the roller coaster ride closely.

In terms of customer loyalty, as much as the airlines loved the sound of the glamorous new model, they could only keep their patience up to a point. Since 2009, a mere 13 new orders have been placed while the cancellations have continued to increase. Recognising that there would be little point in trying to keep up appearances, Boeing recently admitted that some airlines have opted out of the 787 in favour of the more reliable models, the 777 or the 767. The biggest blow to Boeing, however, is the fact that arch rival Airbus is capitalising on its failures, despite that fact that it’s had its fair share of troubles, too. Still, Airbus excelled greatly in 2010 and reported more plane orders and deliveries than its troubled rival.

Perhaps justifiably, some industry players have openly mocked Boeing’s crisis-ridden attempt to introduce the next-generation airplane. “Boeing has very clearly failed with its new plane,” scoffed Akbar Al Baker, the head of Qatar Airways.

Controversially, the company has launched an assembly plant in South Carolina, something that has caused furore. According to Boeing’s machinist union, the company only wishes to establish the plant in South Carolina instead of keeping it in Washington so as to take advantage of the former’s weaker labour laws. The accusation is supported by the National Labor Relations Board, which has threatened to shut down the plant. The Dreamliner saga, it seems, is a never-ending story.

Diving with manta rays

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

I am underwater, staring back at an eye as big as a golf ball. Dark and limpid and knowing, the eye fixes on me from two feet away as the manta ray swoops by. For an instant I can look straight into its gaping mouth and see the row of small flattened teeth in its lower jaw. Close on its tail comes another manta, and another and another – a line of creatures seven or eight feet wide all pursuing the nutritious black specks of plankton that collect in this small bay when the lunar tide is high.

The manta rays are unaffected by my presence, cruising past me with inches to spare, now swooping, now spiralling in the water column, crossing and crisscrossing each other in a dizzying dance. Like planes in an aerial dogfight they are unhampered by gravity, turning, banking and swerving through the soupy green water without seeming to expend any great effort.

From above, the rays are great black silhouettes, scything streamlined shapes that fishermen called “devil fish” because of the curious horn-like fins hanging down near their mouths. But side on and up close you can look into their eyes and get a sense of their peaceful nature. Unlike stingrays, mantas don’t have venomous spines in their tails, and unlike many fish species they seem to enjoy human company. They tolerate our presence and sometimes perform loop-the-loops through the air bubbles exhaled from my scuba gear.

Once, overenthusiastically, I swim towards a manta cruising so slowly it seems to be suspended in the water. I am just a few inches above its broad flat back when it senses me. The whole fish twitches in alarm and with one beat of its massive wings it shoots away, perhaps fearing that I will touch it. I feel ashamed to have given it a fright.

I have come to Hanifaru, a small lagoon next to an uninhabited island in the Maldives, especially to see manta rays. These great harmless filter-feeders congregate here during the south-west monsoon between May and November and, if the tides and winds are right, enter a shallow cul-de-sac in the reef to hunt for food. On certain days, usually near to the full moon, the bay can attract more than 100 mantas.

Guy Stevens is my guide, a British marine biologist who has been studying the mantas for the past five years. Based at the nearby Four Seasons resort, he has identified more than 2,000 individual manta rays, photographing and cataloguing them according to their distinctive belly-spots and skin patterns. Many of them he now recognises by sight.

Each day we make the 40-minute boat journey from the resort at Landaa Giraavaru in Baa Atoll to Hanifaru. Feeding events, as Guy calls them, are never guaranteed, but during the season hotel guests can sign up for “manta alerts”. If Guy and his research assistants spot significant manta activity, the guests will be brought by fast speedboat to the lagoon for a snorkel expedition.

“The rays come in the largest numbers at high tide,” he explains, “and when the plankton has been concentrated at one end of the lagoon by the winds and current.” Word among the diving community about the possibility of finding massed manta rays at Hanifaru has slowly been spreading over the past year. Outside the shallow lagoon I can see five large safari boats – live-aboard cruisers that take divers around the best underwater sites in the Maldives. They will send smaller boats into Hanifaru in the hope that their divers will get lucky and see schooling manta rays.

It is something that Guy has been monitoring closely. “Word is out that Hanifaru is a top manta spot,” he explains, “and although the government has declared the bay a ‘protected area’, we still don’t have any regulations in force to limit the number of divers and snorkellers who can swim (with them) at any one time.”
On several dives I am lucky enough to get close to the mantas, sometimes in the bay at Hanifaru and sometimes at nearby underwater “cleaning stations”. Here, the mantas come in small numbers, or individually, to pause above a coral outcrop and wait while small fish pick at their skin, removing parasites or dead flesh, in the way we might visit the dentist.

Adapted for fast swimming with flattened and perfectly hydrodynamic bodies, they can accelerate rapidly with a twitch of their tapering wings. They gaze at human swimmers with a kind of knowing calm, something people commonly express when they try to capture the emotion they feel after seeing them.
Divers fall in love with them and swimming with manta rays imparts a sense of peace.

“The mantas have the biggest brain of any fish,” Stevens explains, “and some manta researchers are convinced that mantas can recognise individual people underwater.” Hanging in the water a few yards below the surface, I watch the mantas dance around me. An hour on scuba passes too quickly and it is time to return to the boat. And now we are not alone. Another group of divers has entered the lagoon and a boatload of snorkellers is preparing to swim with the rays. I want to stay with the mantas as long as possible, so I return to the water with mask and snorkel. I have seen many manta rays on dives around the world, but not in these numbers. And now Guy says there are at least 40 mantas in an area about the size of a football field.

When feeding, the mantas of Hanifaru are often happy to stay near the surface, making them accessible to snorkellers just as much as divers. They seem not to mind the human competition in this quite small space, and indeed they are often joined by other rays and even giant whale sharks, which also feed on the same plankton.
During my stay at Landaa Giraavaru the resort receives a visit from the president of the Maldives, Mohamed Nasheed. Since coming to power in 2008 he has made his interest in the marine environment and concerns about climate change well known. In 2009 he held an underwater cabinet meeting, urging other world leaders to act decisively to combat climate change. More practically, he has banned shark-finning in the Maldives. The protection of wildlife areas such as Hanifaru is clearly one of his objectives, and I asked him why he took such an interest.

“Maldivians have lived with the reefs and their fish life since long before there were tourists,” he tells me after snorkelling over the corals at Landaa Giraavaru. “Yes, our reefs and our fish life are a resource for tourists, but the fish are our main source of food, too. And while tourist dollars are good for our country, the sea and its produce are even more vital to my people. I have to balance what tourists want to see with what Maldivians need to do to preserve the marine environment – and in some cases, like Hanifaru, those objectives coincide.”

For Guy Stevens, for President Nasheed, and for the guests who stay at luxury resorts such as the Four Seasons, the lagoon at Hanifaru represents different things. Balancing those interests – science, tourism and fishing – is one of Nasheed’s challenges.

I return to the lagoon over the course of several days and learn more from Guy about his hopes for the future. “People can visit this place, but I want to be sure that they don’t harass the mantas by touching them or crowding them out while they are feeding. We’re working to get a full-time ranger’s station and some kind of permit system to limit the number of boats that can enter the lagoon each day.”

At Landaa Giraavaru I meet other tourists who have been to the lagoon on a manta encounter. Anne, a middle-aged woman from England, is typical. “I had never seen a manta ray before, and I’m not a diver,” she told me with shining eyes. “But being in the water with them was such a privilege. I think I’ll be smiling for days.” For now, the rays at Hanifaru are safe, and it’s easy to see why they exert a kind of magic. But in other parts of the Indian Ocean the rays are being increasingly hunted for their gills – an ingredient in Chinese medicine.

These graceful giants seem too gentle to be butchered for unproven quackery. Their lives are in many ways still a mystery to science, but their grace and streamlined power drew me into the water again and again. Like shadows from a dream, they seemed creatures unworldly; pure, quiet ambassadors of the sea.
© Telegraph Media Group, 2011