Author: Charlotte Gill

Mexico

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Following the inception of agriculture around 7,000 BC, Mexico was home to an array of successful civilisations, including the Olmec, Aztec, Zapotec and the Maya. The great temple at Chitchen Itza, the most impressive legacy of the latter people, is a wonder to rival sites like Macchu Picchu, Petra or the Pyramids at Giza.

As well as a long history, this vast country has a diverse geography, stretching from temperate to tropical, snow-capped mountain to furnace-hot desert and from Pacific to Atlantic shores. Whether you prefer to chill in modern surrounds or venture intrepidly into the back of beyond, there’s enough of everything here to satisfy your needs.

Mexico City, the world’s third largest metropolis sprawled across a highland basin, is a maelstrom of activity that buffets the visitor from strange encounter to unexpected experience, before depositing the bewildered traveller in a calm oasis of tranquil sophistication or unutterable beauty. Trek through the jungle and discover hidden temples in secret landscapes so ‘Lost World’ you half expect a T-Rex to come careering round a corner. There are plenty of ancient tombs and cracked canyons to explore, experiences that will infuse you with the spirit of Indiana Jones, or you can just chill out on sun-kissed beaches and kayak with sharks and sea lions.

One thing Mexico is short of is time – it just seems to vanish, swallowed by the gaping interior. Business, on the other hand, can drag on for weeks; the words maňana, maňana might be considered a national battle-cry.

Getting there

Mexico City and Cancun take intercontinental flights; approximately 20 smaller airports serve regional and US routes. Buses link to Belize, Guatemala and the US.

Getting around

The domestic flight network is extensive and good value. There are few rail services but the bus network is good. The highway system is extensive but car rental can be expensive.

Local information

Language: Spanish

Time: Peso (MXN)

Climate: Subtropical, varied. Generally hot, wet summers and warm, dry winters. Temperature (Mexico City): Max 25°C (April), Min 6°C (January). Rainfall: Max 170mm (July), Min 20mm (February).

Currency: UTC-8 to UTC-6

Business etiquette: Business suits are the norm. Greet with a handshake and eye contact. Business meetings tend to be formal, particularly at first meeting, and it is not uncommon for them to start late and overrun.

Tipping: Tip generously; most waiters earn little or no wage.

Duty free: 400 cigarettes; 3l wine, spirits or beer; A reasonable amount of perfume; 1 camera; 12 unexposed rolls of film.

Safety: Oaxaca has experienced civil unrest since 2008 and armed rebels are present in Chiapas. There is a high level of violent crime throughout Mexico. The states bordering the US have been most affected.

Laws: Political activity by foreign nationals is prohibited. Possession of archaeological artefacts can lead to arrest. If you rent/borrow a car, you are responsible for any illegal items found in it.

Healthcare: Vaccinations include hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid. Medical facilities are good and medicines are often available with prescription. Health insurance is recommended.

Socket type: Type A

Reykjavik

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

On an isolated rock constantly contorting between ice and fire, Reykjavik appears to thrive against the odds with weird and wonderful citizens that have one foot in the ancient Viking sagas and the other in the cities trendy clubs and bars. Indeed, the Friday night runtur – a wild pub crawl around the compact city centre – is often an experience of epic proportions.

It can sometimes be a surprise to remember just how far it is to the next habitable land – Greenland is its nearest neighbour but then it’s nearly 1,000 miles to the Hebrides of Scotland – or just how small it really is – it has about half as many citizens as the London borough of Camden. But this is far from a closed community, and the stunning natural setting has inspired a colony of romantics and dreamers. Spend any time at all here and you will grow to love them; but you’ll also start wondering if there’s something in the water.

Where to stay
The Reykjavik Hilton is as quirky as the city, yet at the same time peaceful and accommodating with exemplary levels of service. The Hotel Holt is equally hospitable, with an older, more classical vibe that nevertheless smothers you in comfort.

Where to eat
T˛rír Frakkar is the best place to sample fine yet authentic Icelandic food, which actually draws on multitudinous Scandinavian and wider international influences. Fjalakötturinn combines subtle European and Asian flavours and also boasts the best wine cellar in town.

What to see
The Saga Museum is a great place to explore the key moments in Icelandic history. Iceland’s interior is one of the world’s most unique and exciting landscapes; a drive around the Ring Road (start and end in Reykjavik) is an otherworldly experience not to be missed.

Prague

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

There’s more than a millennium of architectural heritage crammed into this breathtaking city, and its so beautifully preserved that you sometimes feel like you’re walking through a larger-than-life museum exhibit. The capital of the Czech Republic for more than 1,100 years, Prague was also the seat of the Holy Roman Emperor during the 14th and 15th centuries and it was during that age of prosperity that many of the cities most impressive Gothic pieces were constructed.

The fall of the Iron Curtain appears to have signalled a new golden era for a city that has once again thrown its gates open to the West. The picturesque heritage remains but the citizens grow wealthier and more cosmopolitan by the year. This is no longer the cheap night out that attracted hordes of stag and hen parties in the 1990s, but an up-and-coming and attractive alpha world city. Take your time as you explore; there’s plenty to see and do and it all deserves your undivided attention.

Where to stay
The Golden Well is probably one of the best hotels in the world, let alone Europe; it consistently wins awards for both luxury and service. The Arcadia Residences are great for longer stays, with fantastic, modern self-catering apartments in a central location.

Where to eat
Traditional Czech food is served with a friendly flourish at Restaurant U Cízku, while U Modré Kachnicky transforms old village favourites into fine Bohemian haute cuisine, without being pretentious or pricey. For a great international menu, head to Hergetova Cihelna.

What to see
The beautiful Strahov Monastery dates back to the 12th century and is well known for its two Baroque libraries. The Jewish Quarter, Josefov, was transformed during the 19th century and now splendid Art Nouveau architecture houses a wealth of Jewish history.

Ottawa

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Canada may have had some bad press over the environmental implications of exploiting its vast natural resources, but its capital Ottawa remains one of the cleanest, greenest cities in the world. At the confluence of three great rivers and with an intricate series of canals connecting it to Lake Ontario and Georgian Bay, it has a wealth of waterside walks and leafy, urban parks in which friends and families alike are often seen enjoying the crisp, Canadian air.

It also straddles the divide between the French speaking Quebecois to the east and the more Anglo-centric areas to the west and south, with a surprisingly harmonious cultural cocktail of old and new world influences. It’s a city that revels in the simple joys of life – food, wine, the great outdoors – and where smiles and laughter proliferate like infectious avian diseases. You know that warm feeling of invigoration after a period of light exercise? That’s exactly what Ottowa feels like.

Where to stay
Minto Suites is one of the top choices for business travellers, with clean and spacious rooms complete with kitchen space. The Westin also has a great reputation as a conference venue and caters well for most needs.

Where to eat
Beckta is a great Canadian restaurant set in a fine Victorian house that showcases some of the capital’s most creative cooking. La Baccara has a distinctly more Gallic feel and the high class gastronomy is reminiscent of France’s finest.

What to see
The Parliamentary buildings on Parliament Hill have a neo-gothic air about their Victorian sandstone architecture; this is also close to the World Heritage Rideau Canal, which becomes the ‘world’s longest skating rink’ in winter. The Canadian Museum of Nature is a fantastic testament to something that Canada has in abundance.

Naples

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

If you stop to look a while, you can almost see the ghosts of this once-beautiful city still trapped in the crumbling facades of its cobbled terraces. While Milan, Florence and Venice strut their stuff with wild abandon, Naples sighs at the margins, before embracing life with far more gusto than glamour.

There’s much to both love and hate in a city that has played an integral part in the history of the nation, not to mention the development of its much-loved gastronomy. This is the city that invented the pizza and the romantic guitar, a former capital of a southern kingdom before the unification of Italy, and an important powerhouse during the industrial revolution. It is also a city dogged by congestion and corruption.

Grittier than its northern neighbours, the high-octane city life will sweep you off your feet the moment you step out of your hotel. Explore the ancient Greek streets, bustling markets and pulsating squares, before returning home with memories of your own secret, hidden treasures.

Where to stay
Ritz Carlton and Hilton both have top class hotels located in the city; Naples-Bay Resort caters more to leisure than business but still provides luxurious suites and a great, restful atmosphere. The Bellasera Hotel is another great option for spacious rooms that feel like small apartments.

Where to eat
One of Naples most surprising features is the popularity of American food; the superb Old Naples Pub, a discrete dining spot for the local elite, is a great case in point. Campiello’s, with some great daily specials, is the best place to sample the local cuisine.

What to see
The best of Naples is on display at the harbour, historically the heart of the city; the beautiful cityscape and old docks can be explored by foot or by harbour cruise.

Nairobi

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

With so much else on offer – from the world famous safari to the dramatic mountains and gorgeous coast – Kenya’s vibrant capital often gets overlooked. The country’s natural riches are so openly flirtatious that few take the time under the skirts of the somewhat more demanding Nairobi. Yet talk to any of the numerous ex-pats and volunteers who’ve spent more than a little time here and most will tell you they wouldn’t be anywhere else.

Impromptu street cricket and competitive rugby sevens are just two of the legacies of British colonial rule and the fascinating mix of indigenous and imperial ideas makes for a exciting, eclectic city. The night-life is superb and many of the bars are replete with friendly and entertaining characters who are only too ready to talk with you, providing the curious traveller with endless ethnographic opportunities. If it all gets a bit much, there are still ample opportunities to escape; head to the mountains for a day or take a tour of a tea plantation on the outskirts.

Where to stay
The Village Market Hotel is an excellent Boutique that combines ultra-modern design techniques with African art to create a funky yet homely feel. The Serena Hotel has a great location near central Nairobi and caters for all your business needs.

Where to eat
Dining at Lord Erroll can feel like a journey back in time but the food is legendary, particularly the supreme Sunday lunch buffet. Pasara Cafe at the heart of the city is popular for business lunches.

What to see
For Elephants without the safari, visit the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. The Nairobi National Museum hosts a rich collection of Kenyan natural and cultural artefacts; the Karen Blixen museum is an equally fascinating look at the intra-war period in the 30s.

Miami

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Miami loves to flirt; but be careful with her, because this isn’t your regular date. Behind the gorgeous good looks flaunted shamelessly to the world there’s a catalogue of eccentrics that make this far more than just another seaside resort.

There’s no doubting her credentials. Positioned at the southern tip of the Gold Coast, with miles of beautiful sandy beaches and the whole of the Caribbean on her doorstep, its small wonder she’s the most lusted after girl in town. But this is also America’s number one place to retire, a honeypot for the rich and famous alumni of the world elite who no longer have to conceal their oddities and can do pretty much anything they please.

Add to that an eclectic multiculturalism in the most Latin American city north of Mexico and you’ve got the potential for fireworks. So don’t arrive in Miami expecting just another beach holiday; this girl is crazy and she’ll drive you wild.

Where to stay
The Mandarin Oriental provides spacious rooms with fantastic views of the bay and a range of facilities to help you both work and relax. EPIC hotel is another top choice, with a fantastic reputation for service, while the Viceroy is exceptionally restful.

Where to eat
Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink serves well-considered dishes showcasing the best of locally sourced ingredients in an unassuming downtown environment. The Forge Restaurant on Miami Beach is a trendier option; on Wednesday nights in particular there are many celebrity faces found in its elegant, oak-panelled dining room.

What to see
Go see a laser show in the beautiful Bayfront Park, then shop at the intriguing speciality bazaar at Bayside Marketplace. Vizcaya Museum and Gardens is a gorgeous tribute to the Italian museums. Really, though, you’ll probably spend most time on the beach.

Milan

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The fashion-conscious will know it as the design capital of the West, the launching pad for the visionary talents of Gucci, Armani, Prada and many more. The sports-mad will know it for its football teams, AC and Internazionale, who have produced more European Champions and World Cup winners than any other city in Europe. Art lovers will know it for the legacy of Leonardo da Vinci, the music of Verdi and the renowned performances at the La Scala opera house.

Whichever Milan you see, the creative flair and lust for life underpins everything in a city laden with a heritage that stretches back to the Roman era. Trace it through the Gothic cathedral, Renaissance piazzas and neoclassical edifices of Bonaparte’s rule, and discover hidden depths that go far beyond the beautiful people strutting and sunning themselves on paved roads and green parks. Milan is the major driving force behind the Italian economy, but in cultural terms its influence reaches much further; what they do today in the moral capital, they’ll be doing tomorrow in London, Paris and New York.

Where to stay
The Milan Park Hyatt is faultless and is in the Travellers’ Choice European Top 25. The four-star Berna Hotel is another award winner, with genuine commitment to customer service and a great location with easy transport links throughout the city.

Where to eat
Trattoria Milanese is the best of Milan’s fine Italian restaurants, serving a great seasonal menu with a fine creative flourish. Da Claudio is great for seafood that is astonishingly fresh for a landlocked city.

What to see
The Leonardo Da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology is a fascinating illustration of the history of science from the early Renaissance to modern times. The Milan Cathedral is centuries old and is the fourth largest in the world.

Norway

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

At the end of the last ice age, as polar caps retreated, the Sami were so enamoured with the ice that they followed it all the way north and still dwell there today, in the Sápmi region of Scandinavia. The haunting spirituality with which the wilderness affects the populace should not be underestimated; to understand the Norwegian people you must first come to terms with the vast, interior wasteland that looms large in their minds.

There are many ways to enjoy Norway’s captivating geography; take a cruise up the coastline to explore the intricate beauty of the country’s many fjords; head out on a cross-country ski tour to experience cool, clear air and witness some of nature’s finest glaciers; or simply get out somewhere remote and gaze skywards at the northern lights. There’s plenty to explore, even in cities such as the rapidly growing Oslo, the enchanting Bergen and the stunning Alesund.

The country’s natural resources, both from the land and the ocean, are the source of great wealth and Norway is the richest country in the world in terms of per capita capital reserve. In the wake of the 2008 financial crisis it also became widely regarded as one of the world’s most stable currencies. Yet Norwegians themselves are humble and self-effacing, as codified in the ten commandments of Jante Law. It is a highly egalitarian culture and one of the few in the world where women are genuinely on an even footing with men.

Getting there

There are several international airports, including Tromsø, Oslo and Bergen. Ferry links exist to Germany, Denmark, Iceland, Faroe Isles, Sweden and the UK. The European bus and train network provides connections to the rest of Europe – distances are large however and journey times long.

Getting around

Norway has nearly 50 airports and an extensive domestic air network. Trains are efficient but limited in coverage; long distance buses have much greater coverage and are just as comfortable. Buses, trains and ferries are often timed to link with each other.

Local information

Language: Norwegian

Time: UTC+1

Climate: Cool temperate. Warm summers, cold winters, rainfall throughout the year. Temperature: Max 23°C (July), Min -8°C (January). Rainfall: Max 95mm (August), Min 30mm (March)

Currency: Norwegian Krone (NOK)

Business etiquette: Greet with a casual, firm handshake and smile. Appointments should be made as far in advance as possible. Decisions are consensus driven. It is important that you meet deadlines and commitments otherwise you will be deemed untrustworthy and the business relationship will suffer.

Tipping: 5-10 percent, given only for excellent service.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes; 1l spirits over 22 percent; 1.5l wine; 2l beer below 4.75 percent; Small amounts of perfume; 10kg of meat, cheese and foodstuffs (except dog and cat food).

Safety: Be careful when exploring the wilderness; travel only with experienced guides. There is a low incidence of crime.

Laws: Assaults, even minor, are heavily punished. Drink driving and speeding attract heavy sentences. Drug possession, even small amounts, may attract a prison sentence.

Healthcare: Excellent facilities available. Hospital treatment is free but charges apply for visits to doctors and dentists. Insurance recommended.

Socket type: Type C

Monaco

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Travelling through Monaco can sometimes feel like entering a crazy, high class circus, as 30,000 individuals, predominantly wealthy foreigners, are packed into 1.95km2 of the second smallest country in the world. A constitutional monarchy since 1911, it’s foreign policy and many of its economic interests are aligned with France by virtue of treaty; yet it remains an independent city-state famous for its summer street race, Monte Carlo casino and the excesses of its celebrity royal family.

The official language is French but there are over 100 different nationalities among its people and all children are required to learn Monégasque at school. Its economy is based on finance and retail and while it is not a member of the EU much of its monetary policy is in line with European Community Law. In 2003 it was identified as a tax haven and received criticism from the international community over investigations into corporation tax and money laundering; yet since 2009 healthy international relations have been restored after significant efforts to combat any endemic corruption.

Tourism is another major income stream and a number of events attract visitors in droves; the Tennis Masters in April, Non Violent Film Festival in December, Monte Carlo Opera Season during the winter months and the Arts Festival in the Spring– not to mention the Formula 1 Grand Prix. The warm Mediterranean climate, glamorous harbour and hedonistic array of pleasures are yet more of its charms; you can stay entertained here for as long as you still have some reserve of energy and a few coins in your wallet.

Getting there

Monaco has no international air or ferry links. However, there are no border restrictions crossing to France and there are regular train and bus links to most major French cities. Cote d’Azur Airport in Nice is the closest international terminal.

Getting around

Buses and taxies provide local transportation. You can walk across the whole of Monaco in a couple of hours.

Local information

Language: French, Monagesque

Time: UTC+1

Climate: Oceanic Mediterranean. Hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Temperature: Max 26°C (August), Min 7°C (January). Rainfall: Max 125mm (November), Min 15mm (August)

Currency: Euro

Business etiquette: Business suits are the norm. Handshakes are a common form of greeting. Greetings are important, as are goodbyes; be sure to greet everybody in the room. It is considered impolite to start conversing in French before reverting to English. If you require a translator, apologise for your lack of French at the start.

Tipping: Service is included in restaurant bills; porters and valets expect a small tip.

Duty free: As per France. All visitors without private transport enter from France and there are no active border restrictions.

Safety: Incidence of crime is low. Thefts have occurred on trains travelling to and from Monaco.

Laws: It is illegal to walk around in swimsuits, barefoot or stripped to the waist outside of beaches and bathing areas.

Healthcare: Excellent but expensive medical facilities are available. EHIC cards are not valid in Monaco. Health insurance is essential.

Socket type: Type C, Type D

Gibraltar

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Gibraltar is a tiny colony with a population of around 30,000 which has been under British administration since the 1713 Treaty of Utrecht, following the War of Spanish Succession. The town takes its name from the famous Rock of Gibraltar, which was once considered by the Greeks the northernmost Pillar of Hercules and a marker for the edge of the ancient world. Today it is a popular location for financial services and internet-based gaming businesses, while its lively population of Barbary macaques and underground labyrinth of tunnels attract many visitors from mainland Spain.

The locals speak English and Spanish, sometimes both at the same time, though public signposts are mostly in English. The influence of British, Spanish, Genoese and North African cultures are all felt in what has become a truly international town. Historically, the British military accounted for nearly 60 percent of the economy but that is now as low as seven percent as a service-based infrastructure has thrived. It’s economic health does, however, depend on ongoing relations with Spain, which has long laid claim to the island and closed the border during Franco’s regime.

You should have plenty of time to explore the island and it can all be covered on foot. The view from the top of the rock, accessible by cable-car, is spectacular while dolphins can be spotted diving and playing off the shore. Watch the changing of the guard at the Convent for a little piece of imperial Britain, or take a tour of the old city walls. The golden stalagmites in St Michael’s cave, among others, should not be missed. When you’re done you can sit and picnic by the sea and watch the world go by.

Getting there

Easyjet, Monarch and Iberia all fly daily from London Gatwick. There is a weekly ferry from Tangier. If driving, it is easier to park in La Linea and walk then try and take a car across the border. Regular buses also serve La Linea but not Gibraltar.

Getting around

Gibraltar can easily be covered on foot. There are several local bus lines and a cable car to the top of the rock.

Local information

Language: English, Spanish.

Time: UTC+1

Climate: Mediterranean. Hot, dry summers and warm, wet winters. Temperature: Max 28°C (July), Min 9°C (January). Rainfall: Max 150mm (December), Min 0mm (July)

Currency: Gibraltar Pound (GIP)

Business etiquette: Greet with a firm handshake. Dress conservatively. English is mostly used for business, though Spanish is used when dealing with Spain. Communication is direct and punctuality is important.

Tipping: 10 percent is standard.

Duty free: Reasonable quantities of tobacco products, alcoholic beverages and perfume for personal use.

Safety: Crime is low. Be aware of schemes selling ‘tickets’ to get into Gibraltar; these are not required.

Laws: Low tolerance for drunk and disorderly behaviour.

Healthcare: Vaccination for tetanus required. Excellent medical facilities available. UK citizens, or European citizens with an EHIC card, are entitled to free healthcare. Non-EU may be charged and should have health insurance.

Socket type: Type C, Type G

Cook Islands

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

These fifteen loosely clustered islands are spread over an area three times the size of France, despite having a total land mass that would be comfortably swallowed ten times by Paris. Remote doesn’t even begin to describe them; yet thousands of years of Polynesian history and culture have produced a tightly knit and friendly community that enjoys a wealth of striking natural splendour.

The majority of the fourteen thousand population are clustered on Rarotonga, with beautiful rocky mountains and glorious ivory beaches. There’s something exhilarating about standing on one of the craggy headlands and staring out across the endless Pacific waves in the knowledge that there’s not so much as a sandbar for thousands of miles. If that sense of the sublime appeals to you then the out islands are a treat; there you can live out any secret castaway fantasies in peace and isolation.

The magnificent coral lagoon Aitutaki is a great place to dive, while flights over the island from Rarotonga offer breathtaking views from the air. Spectacular underground pools and cave complexes under Mitiaro and Atiu are just as enchanting, or you can visit the black pearl farms at Penrhyn or Manihiki. Many of the more sheltered lagoons are perfect for a host of water sports and the bustling town of Avarua is a great place to put your feet up at the end of the day.

Getting there

The international airport is at Raratonga. Routes are limited and only Air New Zealand and Pacific Blue fly there.

Getting around

To get between islands you can fly with Air Raratonga or use inter-island cargo ships – the former is far more efficient. Public transport is extremely limited; the main form of transport is the motorbike.

Local information

Language: English, Cook Island Maori

Time: UTC-10

Climate: Subtropical. Hot summers, warm winters, rainfall throughout year. Temperature: Max 31°C (January), Min 14°C (July). Rainfall: Max 270mm (March), Min 100mm (July).

Currency: New Zealand Dollar (NZD)

Business etiquette: Business dress is usually casual, though it should be neat and modest. Meetings are often very informal as well. Punctuality is not a prevalent virtue among Cook Islanders and expect meetings to start late and overrun. It can take time to foster a relationship and you should be careful not to embarrass yourself, as this is a small business community and your reputation will carry to others. Prayers are often spoken at the beginning and end of meetings.

Tipping: Tipping is not encouraged.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 1kg of tobacco; 2l of spirits or wine or 4.5l of beer; Goods up to the value of NZ$250.

Safety: Tropical storms and cyclones occur largely between November and April, though may occur in other months too. There is a low incidence of crime, though theft of jewellery, cameras and other attractive items does occur.

Laws: There are few local laws of note; however this is a conservative culture so you should dress and behave modestly so as not to cause offence.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required tetanus and typhoid. There is one government hospital but comprehensive travel insurance is recommended.

Socket type: Type I