Author: Charlotte Gill

Berlin

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Once a city that symbolised division, Berlin has spent the two decades since the fall of the famous Wall making up for lost time; it has become one of the most diverse, tolerant and downright animated cities in Europe. Only in Berlin would you find a hotel with an upside-down room (Propeller Island), or a public swimming pool afloat on the river in an old cargo container (Badeschiff), or a museum devoted to curried sausages (Currywurst Museum). Whether you’re into art, music, food or drink, there’s a scene here waiting to be discovered.

It’s all done with such slick style, too; from the perfect timing of your connection to the complimentary wine on your pillow, the little touches make your stay that much more memorable. Berlin is embracing the twenty-first century at a run but it hasn’t forgotten its heritage; there are still many places to explore the bruising legacy of the twentieth century.

Where to stay
The Circus Hotel is comfortable, clean and modern with an excellent restaurant attached. Offering a range of facilities and an unparalleled elegance, the Ritz Carlton is another good choice. The Hotel Concorde is impressive from both without and within and has a handy central location.

Where to eat
Marjellchen is top choice for traditional German food, while Thai Inside is an excellent location for informal business meetings and entertainment. Restaurant 44 has a good international menu and beautiful balcony area which really lights up in the early evening.

What to see
The neo-classical Brandenburg Gate, modelled on the Acropolis of Athens, is as impressive today as when it was built in the 18th century. The ancient history collection is particularly fascinating at the Pergamom Musuem . You can also visit Checkpoint Charlie, the former border control point for East and West Berlin.

Beijing

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Few cities have served as the cultural and political centre of an area as large as China for so long; and while the likes of Rome and Constantinople have faded in their influence, Beijing is perhaps more important than ever. There is hardly a building in this historic capital that doesn’t have some national significance, yet fourteen million people inhabit this increasingly modern metropolis.

There are over 100 public gardens and museums, several world heritage sites – including the famous Forbidden Palace – and state of the art sports and conference facilities that are the legacy of perhaps the most spectacular Olympics ever held. Exploring the outskirts can be just as rewarding, for an experience of Chinese cultures and subcultures that have remained essentially unchanged in hundreds of years and whose laid back, simple outlook is a welcome contrast to the western conception of fast-paced city life.

Where to stay
The newly constructed Fairmont hotel is housed in a magnificent building and is just as magical on the inside. The Park Plaza is equally as impressive with a central location and wide range of facilities. The Holiday Inn is another great choice that maintains the Chinese reputation for excellent service.

Where to eat
Da Dong Roast Duck and Dali Courtyard are two examples of the great Chinese food on offer, but there are excellent restaurants in many districts. Capital M has a more worldly menu and the Schoolhouse has a definite European flavour.

What to see
The Forbidden and Summer Palaces are both impressive sites on the UNESCO world heritage list, as are the Temple of the Heaven and the Imperial Tombs. Trips to the Great Wall are also straightforward. Hias Gourmet organise excellent culinary tours within the city and Jingshan Park is full of community life on a Sunday.

Barcelona

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As the sun sets over an azure Mediterranean sea, a Spanish guitar samples the flawless acoustics under a balcony in Gaudi’s gorgeous Park Guell. Downtown, the party is just getting started; Barcelona comes alive at night, when the ultra-hip populace emerge to dine, drink and dance into the early hours of the morning.

The capital and commercial heart of Catalonia, this is a proud city with many centuries of heritage. It has nurtured the talents of Picasso, Miro and Dali and continues to inspire a generation of passionate Catalan artists. The 1992 Olympic games was a great turning point in the city’s history, allowing an ambitious urban regeneration project that transformed it into one of the most modern cities in Europe. It also has a great natural setting and there are a number of relaxing walks with fantastic views in the surrounding foothills.

Where to stay
The Hotel Montecarlo is extremely popular and has a great location right on La Rambla; ask for a second floor room as these are the most modern and best equipped. Casa Camper is both peaceful and central with a wide range of facilities.

Where to eat
Con Gracia serves great Mediterranean cuisine, while Osmosis is a trendy and modern choice with some of the best food in Catalonia. The old streets of the Gothic Quarter host a fantastic range of smaller restaurants, many of which add excellent food to their stunning surrounds.

What to see
Get off La Ramblas, which is little more than a tourist trap packed with mimes and human statues, and explore the Gothic Quarter with its tranquil alleys and superb period architecture. Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia is stunning despite being unfinished and if you can get tickets a Barcelona football match is well worth it for the atmosphere alone.

Belfast

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

At the turn of the twentieth century, Belfast was a booming industrial port and the biggest city in Ireland. The Titanic was built here, at the Harland and Wolff shipyards, one of the biggest contemporary shipbuilders in the world.

Then came two World Wars and the Troubles, bombs and religious conflict that marred the cityscape and turned travellers away. But as 2012 brings the anniversary of the Titanic’s launch, the citizens of Belfast are getting ready to celebrate again, because this is once again a thriving, up and coming city. Victoria Square has been transformed by the biggest regeneration project in Europe and the city now boasts a gorgeous, glittering waterfront, lively theatre and music scenes, while each November the Belfast Festival is the second largest Arts Festival in the British Isles – happy days are here again.

Where to stay
The Merchant Hotel has five star facilities and a great location; Dukes at Queens is a peaceful option that’s a little further out but has very spacious rooms and an excellent brasserie. The Fitzwilliam is another great choice that has a great deal of modern pizazz.

Where to eat
The best restaurants are clustered in the central district to the east of Lisburn Road; the Square Cafe has a contemporary menu and the Mourne Seafood Bar is highly recommended. Espresso Soul is a good place for business lunches, alternatively the Ginger Bistro does has an eclectic but essentially Irish menu and is a great place for evening meals

What to see
Belfast is a city best explore with a guide who can show you the finer points of its history; a Titanic walking tour can make the great ship come alive and there are several black cab tours and ghost walks on offer. Belfast Castle is impressive and well-maintained.

Athens

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Greece has many acropoleis, but only one Acropolis. Towering over the city with the magnificent Parthenon astride it, this iconic ancient monument is just one of a host of heritage sites on display in Athens, the oldest city in Europe.

Times have changed since Plato and Aristotle walked amid these ruins; modern Athens is a cosmopolitan boomtown undergoing rapid evolution that leaves it almost unrecognisable from even a decade before. The banning of cars from the city centre has created Europe’s longest and most stunning pedestrian promenade, while a host of new arts facilities and sponsored events are marks of growing prosperity.

Shop till you drop in the inviting commercial district or just browse in the famous market of Monastiraki, sample red wine and sun-soaked olives at pavement cafes and then chill out on the Mediterranean beaches of the Attica peninsula. Athens combines an unparalleled heritage with a host of modern riches to keep even the most restless of visitors entertained.

Where to stay
For stunning views over the city it’s hard to beat the O&B Boutique, but you’ll find better facilities in a central location at the King George. The AVA Hotel provides superb, spacious rooms which can feel like an apartment away from home.

Where to eat
The Gazi is the place to be for restaurants, bars and much more. Varoulko has a Michelin star but mixed reviews suggest it may be in decline; Spondi serves superb French cuisine in an attractive restaurant with great attention to detail and décor.

What to see
The Acropolis is a must see; beyond that, Athens Walking Tours are the best way to take in sights such as Agora, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Plaka, a historic neighbourhood still bustling with life which is a great place to get some refreshment.

Salzburg

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The stunning Alpine setting of Salzburg was the scene for the smash hit Sound of Music, but their most hallowed legacy is probably the work of its most famous son – for these are the hills that inspired Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

The beautiful city centre is an aria of Baroque architecture and one of the best preserved of its kind in the world; the surrounding peaks are an overture of such epic eloquence that you’ll often catch yourself simply standing and staring.
Yet, though Salzburg may resemble an idyllic model captured in an Austrian snow globe, when the sun goes down there’s plenty of life to prove otherwise. The lights that light up along the river give it a gothic feel as the people come out to play, and there are plenty of opportunities to take in Eine Kleine Nachtmusik and dance the night away.

Where to stay
15th century Goldener Hersch provides 21st century amenities without losing any of the historic ambience, while the high ceilings and crystal chandeliers of Hotel Bristol match it for charm. The Sheraton and Best Western Elefant are two more great options.

Where to eat
The K&K Restaurants am Waagplatz is set over three floors of the former home of one of Salzburg’s most prominent 18th century families, with food to match the fine surrounds. The Gasthof Wilder Mann’s excellent Austrian fare is served in a far smaller, more intimate environment.

What to see
St Peter’s Monastery and Salzburg Castle are striking sights with plenty of history; alternatively, try a game of giant chess not far from the Salzburger Dom cathedral or a tour of the surrounding salt mines. Mozart lovers can walk to his square, past his memorial and visit his birthplace and residence to pay homage to the musical genius.

Vienna

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The concert halls of Vienna have played host to many of the great names in classical composition; Beethoven, Brahms, Mozart and Strauss to name but a few. Grand palaces and parks; sparkling fountains and sweeping boulevards; with gothic, baroque, renaissance and neoclassical influences infusing a sublime cityscape there’s still plenty to here to recall the artistic inspiration that the city has for so long inspired.

‘Majestic’ is a word often ascribed to the city, but ‘modern’ is just as accurate. The city’s long cultural tradition is healthily maintained by a plethora of theatres and playhouses large and small, many of which continue to push the artistic boundaries of the twenty-first century. As a rule, the locals are a reserved people who appreciate the finer things in life; intelligent, wine-fuelled discussions after a great meal and a concert, or open air walks in the simpering evening sun. Vienna was a city custom-built for just such occasions.

Where to stay
Hotel Konig Von Ungarn is full of character, with a great location and top class service. The Ring markets itself as a ‘casual luxury’ hotel and the understated elegance and friendly informality of the staff is a hit with almost all who choose to stay there.

Where to eat
Sophisticated Altwienerhof marries traditional Austrian and French flavours to create a superb selection of subtle dishes; the real star, however, is the fantastic wine cellar, which houses over 18,000 bottles with over 700 labels. Bauer and Fabios are two more downtown favourites with excellent atmospheres and menus.

What to see
World Heritage Schonbrunn Palace is a little way out of the city but it’s worth the trip; not only is the architecture stunning but the magnificent interiors have been painstakingly recreated and the grounds also include a theatre and the world’s oldest zoo.

Qatar

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Perched on an isolated peninsula on the Saudi coast, Qatar defies easy stereotypes. Since gaining full sovereignty, following independence from the UK in 1971, the country has really begun to find its feet after a bloodless coup in 1995, which saw Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani seize power from his father and proceed with a radical program of modernisation.

Over half the populace reside in Doha, a city of imperious resorts and towering mansions that scream prosperity, as people play catch up with their ostentatious neighbours in Dubai. Indeed, the IMF lists Qatar as the world’s richest per capita nation, and years of extensive development have begun to yield an urban paradise to be enjoyed.

Beyond the great capital is a great, white desert, punctuated by a few smaller settlements and the occasional clusters of tents. Yet those who inhabit them live a life far from that of the ‘noble savage’; when not clustered around a camp fire these modern Bedouin enjoy nothing more than ‘dune-bashing’ – riding great waves of sand in expensive four by fours.

There is a growing tendency within the country to play up to the classical Arabian image in order to attract the tourist dollar, but beneath the sheen this is an exceptionally modern and cosmopolitan nation that has already succeeded in attracting people from across the globe. Many business practices are rooted in Arabic traditions, but the rising influx of European, Asian and American personnel has made for a far more complex and diverse cultural landscape.

Getting there

The only international airport is at Doha, with flights within the Middle East and to Paris, London, Munich, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur. There are roads to Saudi Arabia and UAE and a few regular buses.

Getting around

The public transport system in Qatar is limited, though a new public bus system is being developed. Car rental is often the best option for getting around.

Local information

Language: Arabic

Time: UTC+3

Climate: Arid. Extremely hot summers, warm winters, little rainfall. Temperature: Max 43°C (August), Min 10°C (January). Rainfall: Max 20mm (December), Min 0mm (June-October)

Currency: Riyal (QAR)

Business etiquette: Greet with a handshake and eye contact. Business suits are the norm. Relationships can take time to build and third party introductions can help; there will be many social events which you should make an effort to attend.

Tipping: 10 percent, if no service charge is added.

Duty free: Tobacco and perfume for personal use. No alcohol, narcotics or pork-related products may be imported.

Safety: There is a low level of crime.

Laws: Displays of public affection may result in result.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for Hepatitis A and tetanus. Subsidised medical treatment is available at Hamad General Hospital in Doha; pre-existing conditions require medical insurance.

Socket type: Type D, Type G

Cairns

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Founded in 1876, Cairns was originally established in order to export the gold that had been discovered west of the bay. The swamps and mangroves were cleared and filled with dried mud and sawdust and subsequent agriculture on the reclaimed land helped to support it as a growing northern port. During world war two it was used a military staging point and the Special Forces base at Fairview is still remembered as the house on the hill.

All of which seems so far removed from the tropical paradise that it has become today; rippling blue ocean and peaceful lagoons, just a short hop from the Great Barrier Reef that attracts millions of visitors every year. Cavorting pelicans star among teeming wildlife that can be observed from many of the lush, open parks and public spaces. Far removed from the dusty Australian outback, the genuine rainforest that surrounds the city is over a hundred million years old, and with the new Cairns Convention Centre opened in the 80s it has cemented its place as one of the premier international destinations for business and leisure alike.

Where to stay
The slightly antiquated feel of Shangri-la hotel just adds to the character, as it’s well-equipped and boasts beautiful ocean views. Lake Cairns Resort & Spa is great for longer stays as it comes with fully-fitted self-catering options.

Where to eat
The Ochre Restaurant has a superb choice of locally sourced, freshly prepared seafood dishes. Dundee’s has a great outdoor seating area that makes for a pleasant experience even without the excellent food.

What to see
The Great Barrier Reef is the star attraction and there are a great number of diving options available in the town. Exploring Daintree rainforest, over a hundred million years old, is perhaps just as captivating an experience.

Vietnam

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

After decades of colonialism, communism, civil war and now rapidly accelerating globalisation, Vietnam today is an emerging market country where the excesses of capitalism have yet to ruin its glorious natural legacy. Forest-covered mountains and verdant rice fields inland are trumped only by a lavish coastline littered with tropical lagoons, dramatic peninsulas and white beaches shaded by lazy palm fronds.

Hanoi can overwhelm at first, with its hordes of motorcycles and hawkers, but this colourful chaos is just part of the charm of this city layered with grace and style. Life is slower in Hoi An, where residents and visitors alike sit on splendid terraces sampling delicious seafood delicacies, before taking quiet strolls along the waterfront where the shellfish are still gathered by hand.

For the historically minded, there are many surviving Cham ruins, such as the Hindu temple at Po Nagar. Relics of the war, like the tunnel complex at Vinh Moc built as a bomb shelter, are also well worth exploring. You can escape into the jungle at Cat Tien National Park – though watch out for elephants, rhinos and crocodiles – while natural coral reef and abundant marine fauna are ideal for diving.

The people are friendly, though public etiquette demands more personal space than much of east Asia. Face is important and they will always go out of their way to retain dignity and honour. If you travel with an attitude of curiosity, and not conquest, you are unlikely to receive a warmer welcome anywhere you go.

Getting there

The main international airport is at Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Danang also take foreign flights. There are buses from China, Laos and Cambodia; be sure to have a visa before arriving at the border.

Getting around

Hiring a car is affordable and often most practical. Buses are cheap with good coverage but often overcrowded; trains are slower but more comfortable.

Local information

Language: Vietnamese

Time: UTC+7

Climate: Tropical monsoon. Hot wet summers and warm dry winters. Temperature: Max 34°C (June), Min 13°C (January). Rainfall: Max 340mm (August), Min 20mm (January).

Currency: Dong (VND)

Business etiquette: Dress conservatively. Handshakes are used on meeting and departing, usually only between members of the same sex. In meetings, the most senior person should enter the room first. Negotiations can be slow and there is much red tape before decisions are made.

Tipping: No rigid guidelines.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes; 100 cigars or 500g of tobacco; 2l of alcohol. A reasonable quantity of perfume.

Safety: Drink-spiking and scams targeting tourists have been reported.

Laws: Gambling outside licensed casinos is illegal. Written permission should be obtained to visit border areas near China, Laos or Cambodia.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A, tetanus, typhoid, tuberculosis and hepatitis B. There are hospitals in the main cities but elsewhere healthcare is limited and there is a lack of medicines. Health insurance is essential and should include emergency repatriation.

Socket type: Type A, Type C, Type G.

Havana

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Havana was once described as a cemetery of cinemas; not to mention bookshops, theatres, markets and much more. At the forefront of Latin Culture, the cultural scene was once a rival for New York and Paris, yet the advent of Communism saw much slide into decline.

Today it us undergoing something of a quiet revolution; nothing overt or ostentatious – though the historic Old Town has had a remarkable facelift – but rather a more subtle process of modernisation. Dusty, classic cars still haunt ramshackle suburban streets, but now there are mobile phones and other technological novelties.

The city’s character, of course, and while exhibitions at sites like the Revolution Museum are fabulous historical records in themselves they are almost incidental to the main event; Havana is itself a museum, a glorious testimonial to a time long past and a once-golden socialist ideal that has succeeded insomuch as it has created one of the most fascinating and unique cities on surface of the planet.

Where to stay
For the hippest hotel in Havana, head to the Saratoga; an elegant and charming building that overlooks several other 19th-century splendours along the Paseo del Prado. The intimate Conde de Villanueva only has nine rooms but the atmospheric hotel feels like an authentic Cuban experience in itself.

What to eat
La Cocina de Lilliam has delightful, traditional menu and a beautiful setting; reservations for this popular restaurant are a must. Flor de Loto rates well for both the quality and quantity of the local cuisine it serves.

What to see
Old Havana is in the process of a facelift and this wonderful piece of world heritage is all the more captivating after widespread restoration. The Partagas Cigar Factory is a fascinating place to tour; learn about the history and process of cigar-making.

Romania

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Perhaps more than anywhere in the world, Romania is a country defined by its rurality. With the world population rapidly urbanising, between 1997 and 2006 Romania actually saw a net migration from towns to the countryside.

Rural Romania can appear like the world that time forgot. Sheep wander aimlessly over expansive green hillsides, horse-drawn carts skitter across pot-holed tracks and enormous hand-made haystacks rise like green menhirs standing sentinel at the side of the road. The legend of Dracula attracts many to the Saxon towns and castles of Transylvania, while the wooden churches of Maramures and painted monasteries of the north are reminders that there’s more to do than hunt vampires.

Mismatched Bucharest is a vibrant contrast and one worthy of a double take. The one time ‘Paris of the East’ has seen communism come and go and now seems almost embarrassed of its heritage, tucking away the 60s concrete behind intricate French palaces and Baroque canopies. A lively open-air bar scene and high-end night-life that includes classical opera and foreign-language theatre has arisen from the ashes of reconstruction, making Bucharest once again a burgeoning cultural hub.

Despite modernisation, the people of Romania remain humble and rooted in tradition, abhorring arrogance or condescension. Etiquette is extremely important and a good cultural understanding will benefit business dealings immensely. There is a great deal of bureaucracy to be dealt with, often in overlapping local jurisdictions, and strong business relationships can help to considerably cut down on red tape.

Getting there

International flights go to Henri Coanda Aiport, 16km north of Bucharest. The European bus and train network provides connections across the continent.

Getting around

Trains are the best bet for travelling intercity, as they are reasonably fast and regular. Buses have a better coverage in rural areas. If you really want to explore, a car is probably your only option; though be careful as many rural roads are in poor condition.

Local information

Language: Romanian

Time: UTC+2

Climate: Continental. Hot summers, cold winters, moderate rainfall throughout year. Temperature: Max 31°C (July), Min -7°C (January). Rainfall: Max 80mm (June), Min 25mm (September)

Currency: Leu (RON)

Business etiquette: Dark-coloured suits are worn. Greet with a handshake and eye contact. Business proceedings begin formal but may become more relaxed; proper etiquette is important at all times. Romanians can be tough negotiators and will go to great lengths to ensure they are not taken advantage of by foreign investors.

Tipping: 10-15 percent

Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 40 cigars; 2l liquor; 4l wine or beer; gifts to Ä175; 20 rolls of camera film; reasonable quantities of perfume, medicines and travel souvenirs.

Safety: Incidence of crime is low.

Laws: Identification should be carried at all times. Permissible blood alcohol level for driving is zero.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid. Medical facilities are poor and there is a shortage of basic medical supplies. EU nationals are entitled to free healthcare with an EHIC card; other nationals are expected to pay cash. Health insurance is strongly advised.

Socket type: Type C