Author: Charlotte Gill

Turkey

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Immortalised by Homer’s Illiad, the ruins of Troy are now just one of the countless ancient monuments littering Turkey’s dramatic landscape. After Alexander the Great came the Romans, Seljuks and the Ottomans before the modern day republic. Ancient aqueducts and medieval bridges can still be found, as can many Islamic medresses and still-active caravanserais along the historic Silk Road.

Today Turkey is as contested as ever; major highways and government projects in the 1950s and 60s has laid the way for highly modern cities with prodigious local infrastructure, yet some rural villages in the more arid east appear to belong in the Anatolian Civilisations Musuem. The raging battle between secular western liberalism battles and Islamic eastern conservatism makes for a fascinating and chaotic cultural landscape. In the middle of this feisty mixing pot sits Istanbul, one of the hippest cities on the continent, where hi-octane nightlife of ever colour and variety can be sampled until the early hours of the morning.

Centuries of turmoil and ideological differences have created a people among the most passionate on Earth. Whether for food, football or music, no reception is ever lukewarm. Expect to spend time fostering a relationship before you do business – usually over extended dinners or weekend sports. Never assume that you can charm your way to a business deal though; the Turks are shrewd negotiators and they will grill you relentlessly about any proposal you may present.

Getting there

The Atatürk and Sabiha Gökçen international airports are both located near Istanbul. There are car ferries from Italy and Greece. Border crossings by land are possible, but neighbourly relations can be tense so check they are open before making the trip.

Getting around

High competition keeps fares low on an extensive domestic flight network. Buses are comfortable and efficient with a wide reach. The train network is less extensive and often slower, except on some important routes.

Local information

Language: Turkish

Time: UTC+2

Climate: Mediterranean. Hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Temperature: Max 33°C (July), Min 6°C (January). Rainfall: Max 260mm (December), Min 2mm (July-August)

Currency: Turkish lire (TRY)

Business etiquette: Suits are the norm; in summer a shirt is acceptable. Relationships take time to build. First impressions are important; initial proposals should be clear, well thought out and contain detailed supporting information.

Tipping: 10 percent for waiters and hotel staff.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes and 50 cigars; two bottles of wine and/or spirits; five bottles of perfume; gifts to Ä255.65; electronics to Ä255.65; reasonable quantities of coffee and tea.

Safety: Political rallies often turn violent.

Laws: Mount Ararat is a special military zone and requires a permit; it is illegal to take photographs of military installations. Exporting antiquities is illegal and could result in jail. Displays of public affection could result in prosecution.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A and tetanus. Main cities have large hospitals with healthcare at a reasonable cost. Rural facilities are more primitive. Health insurance is recommended.

Socket type: Type C

Switzerland

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Famous for watches and chocolate, there is in fact much more to Switzerland. A landlocked country with four official languages, it has a diverse culture to match, and whether you fancy dining German, Italian or French you are in for a treat.

This is also the country where people first skied for fun and the impressive Alps make for an exciting summer and winter sports venue. Cruise amid stunning views on the Lac De Neuchâtel and explore the gothic architecture and colourful fountains of the town of the same name. Europe’s largest waterfall can be found at Rheinfall, while the highest train winds through stunning Alpine pass in the popular Jungfrau region.

For the quintessential Switzerland of the tourist postcards, head to Lucerne, with its legendary peaks and idyllic mountain lagoon. Bern’s medieval town centre is worthy of the well of local pride that it inspires, while Basel inspires with its period architecture and is host to some excellent art collections. Yet it is Zurich, home to the fourth largest stock exchange in the world and once dubbed a ‘boring banker capital’, that has become the social and cultural hub of the country. Trendy bars and fine dining have sprouted across the city and the Street Parade has overtaken London’s Notting Hill as the most attended street parade in Europe.

Then, of course, there are the Swiss banks. Quiet, efficient and discreet, by some measures, this is the most liberal, free-market economy in the world. The question is, who wouldn’t want to do business here?

Getting there

International flights go to Zurich, Geneva and Basel-Mulhouse. From outside Europe, flying to London or Frankfurt and connecting on a budget carrier can be cheaper. The European bus and train network provides links across the continent.

Getting around

The public transport system is one of the most efficient – and expensive – in the world. Trains are the mainstay for long distance travel, buses provide good local coverage.

Local information

Language: German, French, Italian, Romansh

Time: UTC+1

Climate: Wet continental/mountainous. Hot summers, cold winters, year round heavy rainfall. Temperature: Max 26°C (July), Min 2°C (January). Rainfall: Max 220mm (May), Min 70mm (December)

Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF)

Business etiquette: Business suit required. Greet with a firm handshake. Business dealings are formal and transactional; relationships are not required and Swiss people are generally private. Avoid asking personal questions or inappropriate attempts at humour unless you know your host well.

Tipping: Tipping is not expected.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 2l of alcohol (up to 15 percent) and 1l of alcohol (over 15 percent); Gifts up to a value of CHF300.

Safety: Crime incidence is very low.

Laws: Smoking is banned in public spaces, expect for some designated smoking areas.

Healthcare: Vaccination for tetanus required. Excellent medical facilities available, European citizens get free healthcare with an EHIC card. Non-EU may be charged and should have health insurance.

Socket type: Type J

Spain

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

A diverse country of lush green valleys, dusty mountains, sun-soaked beaches and rolling, arid plains, Spain is an amalgamation of smaller principalities, from Catalonia in the south to the Basque country in the north. All told, there are seven recognised regional languages, and the influence of these subcultures can be seen clearly throughout the country. The marriage is not always harmonious, however; the biennial El Classico between Madrid and Barcelona is more than just the greatest football rivalry on the planet; it is a symbol of the ongoing struggle between the Spanish crown and provinces.

Regardless of that animosity, what all Spaniards share is a lust for life. The businessman may be constantly thwarted by the cry of “mañana, mañana” but by the evening he will cease to care; from flamenco in Madrid to the bull-run in Pamplona to the annual La Tomatina in Bunyol, the most pervasive image of Spain is one of passion and hedonism.

It’s not all about the party though. The mountains of the Costa Blanca, just a few miles from the famed Benidorm nightlife, see thousands of climbers and hikers each year, testing skill or seeking solitude. The Altamira caves play host to 14,000 year old paintings, while the Tower of Hercules is one of the oldest in the world. In Barcelona, Gaudi’s architecture is steeped in the influence of nature and his Sagrada Familia is one of the wonders of the twentieth century.

Getting there

There are several international airports in Spain, including in Madrid, Barcelona and Valencia. Low cost flights within Europe also fly to other cities. Trains and buses connect Paris to Madrid and Barcelona with onward connections available to other countries. Ferries travel from Algeria, Canary Islands, Italy, Morocco and the UK.

Getting around

Train and bus services are cheap and efficient and go almost anywhere. Low cost air travel is also available between cities. Cheap car rental is also available and can be the best option for exploring the countryside.

Local information

Language: Spanish; various regional languages also recognised

Time: UTC+1

Climate: Diverse; Mediterranean, oceanic, continental or semi-arid, depending on region. Temperature (Madrid) Max: 31°C (July), Min -1°C (January). Rainfall (Madrid) Max 53mm (November), Min 10mm (July).

Currency: Euro

Business etiquette: Dress smartly and conservatively. Expect to spend time building a business relationship. English is widely spoken in cities; however Spaniards do not like to lose face and may not admit that they have not understood something.

Tipping: A tip of five to 10 percent in restaurants is common.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g tobacco; 1l alcoholic beverages exceeding 22 percent or 2l alcoholic beverages beneath 22 percent; 2l of wine; 250ml eau de toilette; 50g of perfume; 500g of coffee; 100g of tea.

Safety: Petty crime is common in some areas.

Laws: Photographing military installations is illegal.

Healthcare: Vaccination for tetanus required. Excellent medical facilities available, European citizens get free healthcare with an EHIC card.

Socket type: Type C

South Africa

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

South Africa is founded on a strong national pride – and with good reason. It is known as one of the most naturally beautiful, diverse and culturally rich countries in the world.

From the spring flowers of Namakwa to the eerie desert of the Kalahari, the buzzing nightlife of Cape Town to the mountain paradise in the Drakensburg, visitors can spend months in South Africa and still fail to take it all in. It has the oldest wine industry outside of Europe and is home to some of the best restaurants in Africa – or the world, for that matter – but head out on safari to take a savannah teeming with wildlife and it’s as if human civilisation simply never was.

Business in South Africa is formal and the people are proud of their cosmopolitan outlook. There are plenty of chances to unwind after hours. Renting a car to get around can make a trip a great deal more rewarding as it gives visitors a chance to see beyond the urban core. Always remember, however, that beneath its modern veneer lies a layer of discontent that may not completely be housed in the nation’s past.

Getting there
Johannesburg is the main international airport, though many European flights also fly into Cape Town. Daily buses run from destinations in Botswana, Lesotho, Mozambique and Namibia. Connections with Zimbabwe have been disrupted due to fuel shortages and political difficulties.

Getting around
Buses are the main form of public transport; long distance services run through the night. There are also slow but comfortable trains between most cities. Vehicle rental is relatively inexpensive; however the road accident rate is extremely high.

Local information
Language(s): English and Afrikaans
Time: UTC + 2
Climate: Semi-arid. Hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Temperature: Max 26°C (January), Min 7°C (July). Rainfall: Max 75mm (July), Min 4mm (February).
Currency: South African Rand (ZAR)
Business etiquette: Formal. Suits are standard for meetings. Punctuality is important and appointments are often required.
Tipping: Widely practiced, not just in restaurants. 10 percent to serving staff, ZAR2 to petrol or parking attendants, and round off the cost of a bill when making small purchases such as newspapers.
Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 20 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1l of spirits or 2l of wine; 50ml of perfume; 250ml of eau de toilette; other goods to ZAR3000.
Safety: Avoid isolated areas and visit townships only with organised tours.
Laws: Drug offences incur a heavy penalty and often lengthy imprisonment.
Healthcare: Vaccinations for diphtheria, hepatitis A and tetanus are required. Medical facilities are good in cities but may be lacking elsewhere. Up front payment is often required – health insurance is recommended.
Socket type: Type M

Chicago

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Approach Chicago by water and the reflected cityscape of towering skyscrapers might leave you speechless; particularly at night when the glittering luminescence makes it appear as the Milky Way fallen to earth. Once famed for the legend of Al Capone and murky underworld of organised crime, Chicago today is the ‘most American of American cities’, one of the top financial centres in the world and a place where anything is deemed possible.

The allure of the lake-front attracts the best of Chicago; here you will find the larger than life CBD, the most happening bars and clubs and a catalogue of ethnic districts replete with understated restaurants. From Greektown to Little Seoul you can sample Chinese, Polish, Italian, Indian, West African, Vietnamese and almost any other food that takes your fancy. Then head to the theatres for a buffet of performing arts or join the masses that visit just to gawk at the magnificent mix of period architecture and modern engineering triumph.

Where to stay
The Four Seasons Hotel provides elegant, spacious suites with a long amenity list and an excellent in-house restaurant. The rooms at the Hyatt Regency are more modest, but it hosts numerous annual conferences and has a great business reputation.

Where to eat
Smith & Wollensky serves superb steak with a classy, intimate atmosphere; it’s a great place for a business lunch. Everest, on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange, lives up to its billing and location with an exquisite and inventive seven course tasting menu.

What to see
Sip a cocktail on the 95th floor of the Hancock Observatory and enjoy stunning views of the city. Millennium Park has a unique character with an enticing postmodern design. There’s an hourly water show at Buckingham Fountain, one of Chicago’s most recognisable landmarks.

Cape Town

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Few cities can boast such stunning surrounds as Cape Town, or such an iconic natural monument as Table Mountain at their heart. More than just a pleasing wallpaper for the horizon, the spectacular scenery is something of an adventure playground for the city’s residents and add spice to what is already a beautiful and fascinating place to be.

The architecture has been inspired by a chaotic conglomerate of Victorian, Dutch and African motifs, and despite a cavalier disregard for principle of planning a genuine master-work has emerged. The numerous galleries and craft shops are a testament to the creative potential of the citizens; the proliferation of high quality restaurants and pulsating night-life equally show the city’s spirit. But there’s an energy in Cape Town that cannot be qualified, perhaps the sum of its sublime surrounds and combustible cultural heritage. Here, at least, South Africa truly is ‘the Rainbow Nation’.

Where to stay
Cape Town is overrun with great places to stay; An African Villa is a top selection as the helpful staff will share in-depth knowledge of the city and add significant value to an already great hotel; The Blackheath has similarly exceptional service and adds an almost paradisical setting.

Where to eat
Fans of fine food should head to La Calombe, rated in the world’s top fifty restaurants in 2010. The all female team at Mosaic has produced an experimental menu that dazzles from aperitif to after-dinner mint.

What to see
Table Mountain is Cape Town’s most iconic landmark; climb to the top for stunning panoramic views of the surrounding city. Cape Peninsula sees miles of sandy beaches taper into the famous Cape of Good Hope. The Victoria & Albert Waterfront is the prime entertainment district that rivals London’s Soho for its lively and eclectic ambience.

Cairo

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The area around the head of the Nile Delta has been populated for millennia; this is perhaps the most fertile land in Africa and the cradle for the great civilisation of the ancient Egyptians. Modern day Cairo, however, is a world apart from this long and glorious history; congested, confusing, chaotic, it can take time to acclimatise to what is the largest metropolitan area in Africa.
Take that time, though, because once you’ve hardened to the touts and the hawkers this is a truly exhilarating place, nicknamed the ‘City of a Thousand Minarets’ for the proliferation of Islamic architecture. There is a great deal of genuine beauty here, not to mention the wonders just beyond the city borders, monuments to the ancients that will have you gaping in awe and thinking “somebody made that?”.

And for the urban anthropologist, the traveller that likes nothing more than losing himself among the back alleys and side streets of a fascinating new location, there are few more wondrous places than Cairo.

Where to stay
Cairo’s position as a gateway between Africa, Europe and the Middle East mean there are plenty of top class options to choose from. Fairmont, Four Seasons, Marriott, Staybridge Suites and Radisson Blu all have top class hotels in central locations.

Where to eat
The Naguib Mahfouz Café, hidden in the heart of Khan al-Khalili shopping district, offers a superb selection of Middle Eastern dishes. The service at Abu Sid can be slow, but it’s worth the wait as this is widely regarded as being the best Egyptian food in town.

What to see
The Pyramids at Giza and the Sphinx are two of Egypt’s most famous ancient wonders, easily accessible from Cairo. But the old city itself is well worth exploring, particularly the 700-year-old bazaar at Khan al-Khalili.

Lyon

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So often forced to cede the limelight to the French capital, you would forgive the Lyonnais for feeling somewhat envious of their Parisian cousins. Yet ask them and they will invariably tell you that their city is truly the heart of France.

Sandwiched between the world famous wine regions of Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône and home to many of the country’s top chefs, they have at least cemented their reputation as leaders in gastronomy. This was also the home of the aptly named Lumière brothers, who invented cinema, and attempts to revive their legacy in the form of a Grand Lyon Film Festival are gathering momentum. Then there’s the historic Roman and Renaissance architecture that have made the centre a World Heritage site.

The plethora of green parks and lack of congestion associated with the capital is just one more feather in its cap; Lyon is a great city to enjoy the best of French food, fashion and culture without the hassle.

Where to stay
The Hilton Lyon sets a high standard for both service and facilities and is perfect for business travel. La Reine Astrid All Suites provide spacious, well-equipped rooms with tasteful period décor that feel more like apartments.

Where to eat
Alain Chapel was one of the world’s foremost chefs; his protege Gourmand has ensured his restaurant lives up to his legacy. Paul Bocuse’ restaurant is also self-titled, with a chef very much alive and kicking and continuing to prove he is one of the world’s best.

What to see
World Heritage protected Lyon Old Town is a beautiful mix of renaissance grandeur and neoclassical charm. 19th century Basilica Notre Dame de Fourviere is another old architectural gem. The central Tete d’Or is one of France’s most beautiful parks, complete with a rose garden and a zoo.

Zurich

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It’s easy to stereotype Zurich as a city of rich bankers and underground vaults overflowing with gold. It’s also fashionable to dismiss such as unjustified prejudice and focus on the superb gastronomy and the vibrant entertainment scene, not to mention the avant garde counter-cultures that have arisen to challenge the status quo. Both stances miss the point, however, because Zurich is both of these things and more.

The long tradition of neutrality has attracted money from around the world and fostered a fantastic business environment, and the generated affluence has diffused throughout the city to create a vibrant, classy urban environment. The Street Parade has overtaken London’s Notting Hill as the largest street festival in the world, whilst former warehouses are being snapped up at a rate of knots by developers keen to create the city’s next big club sensation.

Where to stay
Hotel Schweizerhof is directly opposite the main train station, with excellent transport links; the rooms are well-appointed, soundproofed and air-conditioned, making this a great choice for comfort and convenience. If you prefer to stay close to the airport, the Radisson Blu sets a similarly high standard.

Where to eat
Peter Mann’s Kunststuben is regarded in some quarters as the best restaurant in Switzerland and it’s certainly the fashionable place to be seen. A l’Opera is famous both for the fantastic mural on its ceiling and the superb quality of its continental food.

What to see
The Swiss National Museum is the most important collection of material on the history and culture of Switzerland, housed in an impressive 19th century building with gothic flourishes. The Rietberg Museum and Kunsthaus Zurich both have impressive collections of art. If you’d like to get out of the city, Rhine Falls is a forty minute drive and is an excellent afternoon escape.

Washington DC

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Arrive in Washington and it’s inevitable that you’ll soon be talking politics. Spend any length of time here and you’ll come to appreciate more than ever the world-changing dream upon which the nation is founded. It’s a city of bricks and mortar like any other but it’s also the most iconographic city in history, and while the white collar professionals and seasoned labourers rubbing shoulders in the street could be anywhere in the world, once you start a conversation you’ll be in no doubt as to the tangible sense of purpose that hangs in the atmosphere and of which the citizens imbibe every day.

Whether you’re fascinated or bored by American politics you’ll soon be sucked in; everybody has an opinion, from the man drilling the road to the senator climbing the steps to the White House. The American Dream and what that should mean is an unfinished debate that’s been raging here for more than two hundred years; give your tuppence worth and you’ll leave with far more than you bargained for, including a wonderful sense of enlightenment.

Where to stay
The unique personality of the Hotel George sets it aside from many of the chain venues in town, plus its commitment to sustainability is a welcome bonus for eco-conscious travellers. The Washington Sofitel combines a refined, Gallic feel with impeccable service.

Where to eat
Two of the finest downtown restaurants are the internationally renowned CityZen and the fine Italian Tosca. If you’d rather somewhere less glamorous, then try the excellent Corduroy, housed in a historic town-house in the convention centre neighbourhood.

What to see
The White House, Capitol and Washington Monument are three of the country’s most iconographic images. The Georgetown Historic district still has soul and is a great place for evening entertainment.

St Petersburg

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Founded by Peter the Great in 1703, the ground on which this beautiful baroque city stands now was little more than a swamp in the early 18th century. Yet during the reign of Elizabeth, Peter’s daughter, the city flourished into a grand city of picturesque plazas and busy canals, with neoclassical flourishes inspired by Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli.

Though it’s no longer the Russian capital, it remains Russia’s premier ‘Window to the West’, more accessible and liveable than the impressive but occasionally daunting Moscow. This is also where the Russian revolution began, heralding seventy years of socialist rule; today its far more consumerist than communist, yet the worst excesses of the West have yet to damage the stunning cityscape.

It’s a pretty lively city, too, famous for its White Nights; long summer days when the sun barely dips below the horizon and the 24-hour party people are out in full force. The most spectacular pictures are taken in winter though, when the frozen river and winter snows create a true fairytale city.

Where to stay
The five-star Grand Hotel Europe lives up to its name – this is the oldest and most luxurious in St Petersburg and goes out of its way to excel. The elegant tradition hotel is a more modest choice but no less comfortable.

Where to eat
The sublime Palkin dates back to 1785 and while today’s version only goes back 2002 it’s still a Mecca for the great and good of the Russian elite. Kavkaz Bar lacks the glamour but remains extremely popular.

What to see
The Winter Palace is a must see; the State Hermitage museum, within, is an added bonus, containing nearly three million works in total. 19th century St Isaac’s cathedral is the third largest of its type in the world.

Shanghai

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

It was in 1843 that China first allowed the West into the country; Shanghai was the first city to open. In doing so, the nation opened the floodgates for a new era of trade between East and West that would have a great impact on world history. The starkest impact was felt in the city itself, however, which accelerated past Beijing in both size and chic by the early 1930s; subsequent communist rule saw a decline in its importance but the 21st century sees the city one again blossoming.

The evidence of modern capitalism and technology are obvious from the spectacular skyline that’s become almost as iconic as that of Manhattan. Yet this is still unmistakeably China; traffic jams are as likely to be bikes as cars, dumplings still sizzle in the humid air on ramshackle street-side barbecues and there are plenty of hidden monasteries and shrines that survive amid the tower blocks that continue to sprout around them.

Where to stay
The JIA Shanghai is a popular choice in which the rooms come provided with everything from a mini-kitchen to free wifi. The Radisson Shanghai New World is another award-winning hotel with a perfect set-up for business travellers.

Where to eat
For the serious food-lover, Fook Lam Moon serves up some of the finest Cantonese haute cuisine in the city. A walk down Wujiang Road will reveal all manner of alternatives; inhaling the rich smells drifting from the numerous restaurants is half the experience.

What to see
The Yuyuan Gardens and the Garden of Natural Beauty are two of the finest of their kind. For a piece of history, the Bund river promenade will take you through the old French/English concessions.