Author: Charlotte Gill

Moscow

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The Giant Bear of Russia has long been shrouded in mystery, but the city of Moscow feels somehow far more familiar. The imposing behemoth of the Kremlin and the view from Red Square in particular have become iconographic images of both the capital and the country as a whole. The association with the old Soviet Union will be a lasting one, yet modern Moscow has far more to offer.

There are more billionaires in this city than any other in the world and it will soon boast the largest building. It’s in a phase of rapid change as a combination of established wealth and a new-found liberal environment is encouraging creativity on a grand scale. Warehouses and factories are now art galleries and underground clubs, while an increasing number of world premieres are gravitating towards its theatres and concert halls. The Moscow of ten years ago is very different from that of today; as change continues apace, now is the perfect time to witness the revolution.

Where to stay
The Savoy is close to the famous Red Square and offers fantastic all round service, though it can be a little noisy. The Hilton, Marriott and Courtyard are among other chains to have flagship hotels in the city exceeding their normal high standards and providing excellent bases for exploration.

Where to eat
Dine on wonderful Russian pelmeni and pies at Cafe Pushkin, which has a rather romantic vibe. The menu at Correa’s has a more international feel but the contemporary setting may be more conducive to business entertainment.

What to see
Believe the hype about Red Square; the beautifully composed colours and intricate architecture are truly stunning sights to behold. Tretyakov Gallery and Sculpture Park is a testament to the cities blossoming creativity, with plenty of contemporary and 20th century works.

Bucharest

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

There’s something decidedly melancholy about Bucharest’s turbulent history. Once lauded for the leafy boulevards and extravagant classicism that made it a dreamy, romantic city, scandalous reconstruction projects under post-war communist rule saw the large scale destruction of much of its heritage in favour of modern ostentation.

What remains is a fascinating, mismatched collage of twentieth century eclecticism and French-imitation imposed upon a refined canvas of Bauhaus, Art Deco and Neoclassical forms. The spontaneity and variety of the cityscape, not to mention a lively student population, has inspired a similarly fascinating cultural scene; from foreign-language films to international hip-hop, Bucharest serves a vast tasting menu of diverse arts from around the world. There’s plenty of originality here too, with traditional influences particularly notable in the unique brand of music.

Where to stay
The Bucharest Novotel has a prime central location and offers everything you’re likely to need for your visit. The rooms at the Rembrandt are both beautifully understated and well furnished and it has the best of Bucharest on its doorstep.

Where to eat
The best Romanian cuisine is served at La Mama, which also has a fabulous outdoor terrace. Carul cu Bere also has a good local menu and is housed in a stunning cross between a Byzantine church and a bierkeller. Trattoria Il Calcio has a more international flavour but the superb French-Italian food is popular with the local elite.

What to see
Part of Ceauşescu’s communist building reforms, the impressive Palace of Parliament is the second largest building in the world, after the Pentagon. Contrast to the Old Centre, which largely escaped the reforms, and remains a romantic testament to the city in its heyday. The Village Museum, which contains 272 authentic buildings and peasant farms from all over Romania, was 1996 European Musuem of the Year.

Lima

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

As a nation, Peru suffers from a veritable embarrassment of riches when it comes to natural beauty and pre-Columbian heritage. So for a long time Lima has simply left the rest of the country to it and gotten on with the business of being the capital. As a result, it is often overlooked by travellers, preferring to pluck the low-hanging fruit at Cusco and Arrequippa than spend time digging the noise and chaos to find its hidden charms of the Peruvian Capital.

But hidden amongst the modern skyscrapers are genuinely ancient temples and pristine colonial mansions; within many of the bleaker modern monstrosities are genuinely inspiring art galleries, exceptional gastronomic adventures and fascinating museums where you could lose yourself for weeks, let alone and afternoon. Because while many of the mountain communities appear to lag several centuries behind, Lima has taken the fast track to the 21st century.

Where to stay
The Miraflores Hotel maintains has an excellent range of facilities and maintains a high standard of service. Peru Star Apartments are spacious and comfortable, with staff that are genuinely eager to help with their local knowledge.

Where to eat
Astrid y Gaston is widely regarded as the best restaurant in town, serving fine Peruvian fusion cuisine in what feels like a refined wine cellar. Chala, near the Bridge of Sighs, has an excellent menu of costa fusion food – Peruvian traditional meals with a Mediterranean twist.

What to see
The historic Plaza de Mayor is the closest thing in Lima to a genuine tourist sight; though the Museo Larco has over 45,000 pieces of Pre-Columbian art tracing 4,000 years of development. Bicycle tours have become a popular way of seeing the city, with plenty of local guides available to give you a real insight into its history and culture.

Gdansk

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

When the King of Poland used to visit Gdansk, he would pass along the Royal Way; through great archways of stone adorned with proud statues and fierce, golden lions; beneath Gothic terraces and Georgian spires of ochre and burnt umber; finally towards the Renaissance Green Gate where the emblems of Prussia, Poland and Gdansk shine as brightly today as ever. That local pride saw all of this and more restored to its former glory after the fierce bombing of the second world war makes it all the more impressive.

As Poland’s principle seaport, Gdansk has long been an important actor in Poland’s economic and cultural affairs. Today, as part of the wider Tricity metropolis that incorporates the spa Town of Sopot and urban sprawl of Gydnia, it has caught the boom-town vibe that has gripped much of the country. Beyond the quaint chic of its heritage there’s a thriving 21st century city and you can’t help but catch a healthy dose of infectious optimism.

Where to stay
The Gdansk Radisson Blu, housed in a newly renovated modern building, is a high class hotel with an excellent location. The Dwor Oliwski is slightly further out but remains popular with business travellers who cherish comfort and privacy with a touch of luxury.

Where to eat
For great Polish cuisine in a stunning period setting, Pod Lososiem Restaurant is undoubtedly one of the finest in the city. Tawerna Dominikanska is also excellent, though with food all made to order you can expect to wait when it gets busy.

What to see
Walking the visually stunning Royal Way is the first thing on the minds of most visitors, though Mariacka Street is just as inspiring and perhaps more authentic, where you can relax with a Polish beer and listen to Jazz on the street.

Kathmandu

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Nestled amongst the might of the Himalayas on an improbably green plateau, the “Land of Gods” is a bizarrely bewitching city that surprises as much as it seduces. Many arriving in Nepal for its vast natural wonders overlook the equally rich cultural assets of a capital brimming with beauty of its own.

First impressions can be wildly ambivalent; how to reconcile the dirty, bewildering streets with the serene and spectacular surrounds? But explore a little and you begin to see that beneath the apparent chaos this is a strikingly artistic city, packed with unique crafts and thousands of perfectly preserved shrines and temples tucked away on winding cobbled alleys.

It’s also wonderfully diverse; with a mix of Buddhist and Hindu influences, there are three main cultural groups in the Newars, Brahmins and Kshetris and many more besides. Apart from a calendar packed with festivals and celebrations this wonderful mix makes for some excellent and varied local menus that are more than a match for the more celebrated Indian cuisine.

Where to stay
The Dwarike Hotel is located near the airport and is an oasis of calm in a sometimes overwhelming city. Hotel Ganesh Himal is more modest but located centrally for those who prefer to stay in town.

Where to eat
Delices de France manages to combine the subtle flavours of French cuisine with the strong spices of Nepalese in a surprising and divine fusion. Thamel House Restaurant is another great venue for local cuisine and comes with high quality traditional entertainment to boot.

What to see
Kathmandu is a great base for organising expeditions into the surrounding Himalayas; there are many companies offering guides. Pashupatinath, Temple of Living Beings, is possibly the holiest site in Nepal and is where many families go cast their dead into the fire.

Mexico City

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The great Aztec City of Tenochtitlan once stood on this antiquated lake bed, but after suffering widespread destruction during a 16th century Spanish siege it was rebuilt according to colonial standards. The name Mexico City became official in 1585 and it has served as the national administrative, economic and cultural capital ever since.

A kaleidoscopic barrage of sights and sounds, from ancient Aztec temples to lucha libre wrestling, Mexico City can feel somewhat overwhelming on first arrival. But what’s surprising is just how much there is to this great metropolis once you dig beyond the surface. Only New York, London and Toronto have more theatres and no city has more museums; the Autonomous University of Mexico is seen as the best Spanish-speaking university in the world.

It can take a little time to get your bearings and adapt to the chaotic pace but you’ll soon find real depth to add to the city’s surprising good looks and charm.

Where to stay
The stunning Four Seasons provides top class service and comfortable, well-furnished rooms. The more modest Hotel Del Principado is a surprise hit with many business travellers, a home away from home in an excellent central location.

Where to eat
Top Mexican chef Patricia Quintana’s restaurant Izote is first choice for many local foodies, with many modern versions of pre-Hispanic dishes. The food at Oh Mayahuel is as unusual as it is good – try the dried grasshoppers or fermented agaves; simply divine.

What to see
The impressive National Palace is one of the oldest buildings in the city, incorporating several eras of architectural influence as it has been altered and expanded. The National Museum of Anthropology is a fascinating testament to cultures past and present that have made Mexico what it is today.

Jerusalem

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The Old City of Jerusalem is perhaps the holiest square kilometre on Earth. The Farthest Mosque, Dome of the Rock, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Western Wall are just four of the holy sites within its bounds, making it scared it Islam, Christianity and Judaism alike. Centuries of pilgrimages and crusades have done little to weather its aura and its legend is such that few cities could ever live up to such a glorious image.

Jerusalem certainly tries though. The stone citadel and golden domes that rise unwarranted from the dust of the desert make for a simple breathtaking cityscape; within the walls, there’s an irrepressible energy amid the throb of the crowds in the spectacular souks and the mingle of prayer calls with the cries of the market-sellers.

More than anything though, its the feel of the city that will make your hair stand on end. Whatever you faith it is hard not to be caught on the tide of emotion as thousands pay homage to that which is most holy.

Where to stay
The King David is a rare gem that combines traditional elegance with modern service and facilities. The renovated rooms at Inbal Jerusalem are airy and comfortable and the food throughout the day is superb.

Where to eat
The fun and festive atmosphere and great Israeli cuisine make for an all round great experience at Abu Shukri. Arcadia has a more international menu but remains popular for locals and visitors alike.

What to see
Where to start? The Old City is a must, and there are plenty of other religious sites. Less well known, the haunting Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial holds over fifty-five million documents relating to the Nazi Genocide, while the Garden Tomb is a great place to pause and reflect.

Antigua

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Antigua’s impossibly blue seas and sandy white beaches are so postcard-perfect that you’re torn between the urge to dive into the still, inviting ocean or simply stand and stare, absorbing sunshine that seems to soak you to your core. Neighbouring Barbuda is little more than a sandy reef, but its indigenous population of sea-birds is a great sight to behold and makes for perfect viewing in moments of peaceful contemplation.

Eric Clapton and Oprah Winfrey are among the many celebrities with winter homes here; indeed, the island’s economy is largely built on its value as a paradisical getaway. Since the late twentieth century, the economy has diversified and it now hosts a growing financial services sector. Despite the small internal market the communal infrastructure implemented by the Organisation of Eastern Caribbean States is excellent and it consistently performs well in international indices of ease of doing business.

With ambitious growth have of course come concerns, such as brief controversy surrounding money laundering laws; subsequent reviews have however found the authorities to have acted positively and decisively on such matters. The government actively encourages foreign investment and has even begun schemes to encourage foreign universities to open overseas campuses on the island, in an effort to boost the local economy and improve the local skill base.

The people are relaxed, warm and friendly in true Caribbean style; however, many of them also work extremely hard and hold down two jobs. They have a great deal of experience in dealing with foreign investors and while face-to-face meetings are always preferable they’ll usually happily communicate at a distance as well.

Getting there

VC Bird International Airport has connections to Canada, US, UK and the rest of the Caribbean. There is a ferry link to Montserrat and various cruise routes stop at St John’s Harbour.

Getting around

Minivans and taxis operate on Antigua but there is no public transport on Barbuda. The Barbuda express ferries between Antigua and Barbuda. There are several car rental companies on Antigua.

Local information

Language: English

Time: UTC-4

Climate: Tropical. Hot all year round, moderate rainfall with November monsoon. Temperature: Max 32°C (September), Min 22°C (February). Rainfall: Max 250mm (November), Min 15mm (June).

Currency: East Caribbean Dollar (XCD)

Business etiquette: Dress in a lightweight suit. Greet with a firm handshake. Punctuality is important and being late could be construed as being rude.

Tipping: Service is usually included. 10-15 percent is appropriate in other cases.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1l of wine or spirits; 170ml of perfume.

Safety: The hurricane season runs from June to November; check weather warnings if travelling during this period. Crime is generally low.

Laws: It is an offence to dress in camouflage clothing. There are severe penalties for all drug offences.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for Hepatitis A and Tetanus. Medical care is of a high standard but expensive; health insurance is essential. The private health clinic Adelin does not accept insurance as payment and requires a $4,000 deposit by credit card.

Socket type: Type A, Type B

Australia

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Australia is a highly urbanised nation, with the majority of the population squeezed into a few cities clinging to the coast. Inside lies the Australian outback, the largest desert outside of the Sahara, where you can walk for hundreds of miles through haunting landscapes of red, yellow and ochre without encountering so much as a telephone box. At the centre of it all stands Uluru, a sacred sentinel rising majestically out of the desert, dominating horizons for miles and attracting half a million visitors each year.

Back in the cities, business negotiations are surprisingly laid back, while modesty and substance will go much further than show and pomp. With a wealth of sun, sand and surf, as well as some surprisingly sophisticated bars, restaurants, theatres and museums, it’s easy to forget why you’re there. The national obsession may be sport, but there’s plenty to do besides discussing the cricket. Check out the music scene in Melbourne and catch up on the latest fashion, or drool over Sydney Harbour before enjoying the vibrant open air night life.

When you’ve tired of all that you can grab an eyeful of some more classical natural beauty; hire a car and take a drive along the gorgeous coastline of Victoria’s Great Ocean Road, or take a dive out at the Great Barrier Reef.

Getting there

Australia has seven international airports – Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Melbourne, Perth and Sydney – and plenty of connecting routes. There are currently no passenger liners operating to or from Australia.

Getting around

Public bus networks and taxis are fine for getting around inside cities but the most practical method of intercity travel is by car. Buying can be more cost effective than renting for long stays. Buses and train routes are available but these are tedious and often uncomfortable.

Local information

Language: English

Time: UTC + 8 to UTC + 10.5

Climate: Tropical, temperate, semi-arid, depending on region. Temperature (Sydney): Max 27°C (January), Min 7°C (July). Rainfall: Max 123mm (June), Min 62mm (September)

Currency: Australian Dollar (AUD)

Business etiquette: Suits are usually worn and appointments necessary. Australians are relatively informal and direct. Long-standing relationships are not required before doing business and negotiations can be quite relaxed. Avoid hype or exaggeration as Australians distrust pretention as a rule.

Tipping: Tipping is not widely practiced.

Duty free: 250 cigarettes or 250g of tobacco or cigars; 2.25l alcoholic liquor; other goods below A$900.

Safety: Crime in Australia is relatively low and the greatest threats to safety come from natural hazards. The ozone layer has been severely depleted here so sun-block is essential, while there are a number of dangerous and/or venomous creatures that travellers need to be wary of.

Laws: Tough prison sentences followed by deportation are incurred for drug crimes.

Healthcare: Vaccination for tetanus required. The UK has a reciprocal health agreement allowing UK citizens to receive free healthcare in emergencies only. Travellers are recommended to take out ongoing health insurance.

Socket type: Type I

Brazil

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Think of Brazil and think of the hedonistic festivals, samba bands marching in the street and the world’s best footballers playing keep-up on the beach. Brazil is carnival country, full of exotic flair. Certainly, it lives up to its reputation in many ways; but there are many other sides to this enchanting country.

Business travellers are more likely to land in Sao Paulo than Rio but the Brazilian business centre is not without its charms; with a host of excellent museums, concerts, plays, shows, experimental theatre, live music and dance, it remains the cultural capital of the nation. Excursions up the coast reveal beautiful sandy beaches with basking palm trees and glittering blue oceans; for some of the best, head to Salvador or Ilha de Santa Catarina.

Inland, the mighty Iguacu Falls is the second largest waterfall in the world, surrounded by the languid western Brazilian rainforest. Further north the Amazonian city of Manaus is teeming with jungle culture and is the gateway for trips up the great river and into an interior teeming with biodiversity.

If after all that its still carnivals you’re after, then forget Rio and head to Recife & Olinda. The festivities themselves start the week before Ash Wednesday but preparations get the twin cities in mood as early as mid-December.

Getting there

Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo receive the majority of international flights, though a few connections are available between Europe and Salvador or Recife. The long border provides overland access from all nine of the country’s neighbours.

Getting around

Brazil is a vast country, making internal flights a great option for many trips with fares often no more than the equivalent bus journey. The train network is almost non-existent. The Amazon acts as a highway for a legion of passenger boats.

Local information

Language: Portuguese

Time: UTC -2 to UTC -4

Climate: Tropical. Hot, wet summers, warm, drier winters – though rainfall varies greatly with geographical location. Temperature (Rio): Max 29°C (February), Min 17°C (July). Rainfall: Max 155mm (January), Min 40mm (August).

Currency: Real (BRL)

Business etiquette: Suits should be worn; appearance is important. Brazilians prefer face-to-face meetings and like to spend time building relationships before doing business. The individual they deal with is more important than the company. Avoid open criticism in meetings.

Tipping: Not expected in restaurants. Round up taxi fares to nearest Real. In hotels, tip the chamber maid about R$5 a day.

Duty free: 400 cigarettes or 25 cigars; Maximum 2l of alcohol; Articles not exceeding US$500.

Safety: Gang related violence is common in Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, though not usually targeted at tourists. Incidence of muggings, armed robbery and sexual assault are high. Tourists at beaches have been targeted by organised crime gangs. A number of assaults have also been reported in unregistered taxis.

Laws: Carry your passport at all times. Driving limit for drink-driving is zero. Drug offences are severely punished.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A, tetanus, malaria and typhoid. Tap water should be boiled or sterilised first. Full health insurance is vital as medical costs are high.

Socket type: Type A, Type C

Botswana

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Botswana is one of the most developed and successful nations in Sub-Saharan Africa, and one of striking contrasts; deserts, deltas, salt plains and hundreds of kilometres of rolling safari make it a paradise for budding explorers. It is also one of the safest countries in Africa and a great place to start for first-time visitors to the continent.

Botswana has been an independent democracy since 1966 and has built its economy on diamond mines discovered in the 60s and 70s. Market freedom is heavily promoted and with a healthy, competitive business environment its economy continues to grow at an astonishing rate. The people are friendly and pride themselves on being a regional leader in international relations; doing business there is genuinely a pleasure.

The main challenge is simply getting around. The capital, Gabarone, is located far to the south, almost 1000km from the best sights in the north. The public transport system is erratic at best and renting a car is often the best option for getting the most out of a stay. It’s worth it though; about 40 percent of the country is covered by national parks and the highlights include the Okavango Delta, sometimes referred to as the ‘largest oasis in the world’, and the Chobe National Park, where elephants, zebras and the famous wildebeest migration can all be viewed on safari.

Getting there

Maun and Kasan airports are the main international entry points. Sir Seretse Khama International, 15km from Gabarone, is well served from South Africa and Namibia. Land crossings from Namibia, Botswana and Zambia are relatively painless by car, though be sure to check border opening times before travelling.

Getting around

Public transport in Botswana is erratic and only serves major population centres. The best option for long distance travel is to rent a car. Cheaper deals are available across the border in South Africa.

Local information

Language(s): English, Setswana

Time: UTC + 2

Climate: Semi-Arid. Hot, relatively wet summers and cool, dry winters. Temperature: Max 33°C (October), Min 4°C (June). Rainfall: Max 96mm (January), Min: 2mm (July)

Currency: Pula (BWP)

Business etiquette: Meetings are formal and lightweight suits should be worn. When shaking hands, touching the arm of the hand used for shaking is a sign of respect. Learn a little Setswana, even just to say hello, to make an excellent first impression.

Tipping: Tips can be given in US dollars. $5 is a respectable minimum for waiters, $10 for guides. Tipping is widely practiced.

Duty free: 400 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 2l of wine; 1l of spirits; 50ml of perfume; 250ml of eau de toilette.

Safety: Botswana is one of the safest countries in Africa and tourist attacks are rare.

Laws: Drug offences result in long prison sentences. Murder, treason and other serious crimes carry the death penalty.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for hepatitis A, malaria, tetanus & typhoid. Tap water in cities is usually fine to drink. Health insurance is recommended but the public health system is fairly good.

Socket type: Type M

Portugal

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Sun-kissed beaches, golden medieval castles and quaint seaside villages surrounded by olive groves; Portugal cultivates a rustic, hedonistic image. The vast forests and glistening rivers of the interior and the winding cobbled streets of Lisbon and Porto do little to dispel this picture. Timeless villages and fairy-tale towns trapped in centuries long past proliferate and it can seem at times like Portugal hasn’t changed in at least two centuries. Indeed, the little settlement at Obidos, deemed so lovely that it was given to Queen Isabel as a wedding present in 1282, became a dowry for every subsequent monarch for the next six hundred years.

Yet Portugal has a surprisingly high-tech economy. The major cities may be centres for traditional business but all along the coast are pockets of aerospace, software and biotechnology industry. The nation is also a world leader in renewable energy; the world’s largest solar power and first commercial wave power stations were opened there in 2006, and today nearly 50 percent of the country’s energy comes from renewable sources.

The people retain strong family ties and this culture carries into business environments where trust networks are frequently more important than credentials. Representative individuals are far more important in building relationships than the company behind them and experienced emissaries will garner more respect than green juniors. The country’s timelessness is also in the national psyche, it seems – deadlines are often seen as optional, particularly in the south, so be prepared for any business proceedings to take some time.

Getting there

There are international airports at Lisbon, Porto and Faro. There are no regular ferries, though there are many to neighbouring Spain. The European bus and train network provides links across the continent.

Getting around

Buses have the best coverage and are faster than trains, though trains tend to be cheaper. Internal flights are expensive and not really worthwhile. Portuguese roads are well maintained but the drivers have a bad reputation; driving there has been likened to ‘civil war’ and it has one of the highest accident rates in Europe.

Local information

Language: Portuguese

Time: UTC

Climate: Mediterranean. Warm, dry summers, cool, wet winters. Temperature: Max 28°C (August), Min 7°C (January). Rainfall: Max 110mm (January), Min 2mm (July)

Currency: Euro

Business etiquette: Dress conservatively. Business and social attire are generally similar. Third party introductions can help significantly; expect to spend some time building a relationship. Relationships are built with people not companies; if a company changes representative the process must begin anew.

Tipping: 10 percent

Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1l spirits over 22 percent or 2l spirits under 22 percent; 2l wine; 50g perfume; 250ml eau de toilette; 500g coffee; 100g tea; Goods to Ä175 per adult or Ä90 if under 15

Safety: Low incidence of crime.

Laws: Carry identification at all times.

Healthcare: Vaccination for tetanus required. Excellent medical facilities available, European citizens get free healthcare with an EHIC card. Non-EU may be charged and should have health insurance.

Socket type: Type C