Nestled amongst the might of the Himalayas on an improbably green plateau, the “Land of Gods” is a bizarrely bewitching city that surprises as much as it seduces. Many arriving in Nepal for its vast natural wonders overlook the equally rich cultural assets of a capital brimming with beauty of its own.
First impressions can be wildly ambivalent; how to reconcile the dirty, bewildering streets with the serene and spectacular surrounds? But explore a little and you begin to see that beneath the apparent chaos this is a strikingly artistic city, packed with unique crafts and thousands of perfectly preserved shrines and temples tucked away on winding cobbled alleys.
It’s also wonderfully diverse; with a mix of Buddhist and Hindu influences, there are three main cultural groups in the Newars, Brahmins and Kshetris and many more besides. Apart from a calendar packed with festivals and celebrations this wonderful mix makes for some excellent and varied local menus that are more than a match for the more celebrated Indian cuisine.
Where to stay
The Dwarike Hotel is located near the airport and is an oasis of calm in a sometimes overwhelming city. Hotel Ganesh Himal is more modest but located centrally for those who prefer to stay in town.
Where to eat
Delices de France manages to combine the subtle flavours of French cuisine with the strong spices of Nepalese in a surprising and divine fusion. Thamel House Restaurant is another great venue for local cuisine and comes with high quality traditional entertainment to boot.
What to see
Kathmandu is a great base for organising expeditions into the surrounding Himalayas; there are many companies offering guides. Pashupatinath, Temple of Living Beings, is possibly the holiest site in Nepal and is where many families go cast their dead into the fire.
