Brussels

The Walloon-Flemish cultural fault-line that runs through Belgium is nowhere more evident than in Brussels, where even the central university was split into French and Dutch speaking halves when the Walloon community gained legislative power.

It’s ironic that a city so given to internal division should be seen as a symbol of European Unity; yet the EU parliament resides here and the international community it has attracted has created the ultimate in cosmopolitan cities.

This has long been a centre for the arts, cultivating the Art Nouveau architecture of Victor Horta and the surrealism of René Magritte; now, its can claim a thriving café culture and a selection of diverse local neighbourhoods, each with their own unique character and experiences. There are over eighty museums and art galleries, so whether its music, sculpture, history, science or religion, there’s something here to catch your eye.

Where to stay
The Radisson Blu EU is conveniently located and has free, fast wifi among a range of other facilities; the downside if you’re driving is the expense of parking. That’s less a problem at the five-star Sofitel, which is on the Expedia Insider’s list for excellence in 2010.

Where to eat
Comme Chez Soi is famous for its fine French cuisine; however, if you prefer not to book two months in advance, try La Claf des Champs, a popular venue with a great outdoor terrace in the heart of the city. Nearby Amadeo Steakhouse is another top choice, well suited for business entertainment.

What to see
The Grand Palace is a one of the most beautiful medieval squares in Europe and is an example of Brussels at its finest. The Musical Instruments Museum has a fascinating collection that really brings its subject to life. Musee Rene Magritte showcases surrealist art at its finest.

Belgium

Belgium has been called the ‘battleground of Europe’, as successive English, Dutch, French and German armies have all fought each other within its borders; the cemeteries of Ypres, were 300,000 died during WWI, are perhaps the most poignant reminders of follies past. The years of conflict have left a highly multicultural, multilingual country, which has, ironically, become the seat of the EU parliament even as the country itself remains highly divided between the Flemish north and Walloon south. The capital Brussels, a truly international city in the twenty-first century, gets mixed reviews; labelled ‘dull’ by some it is adored by others for its fine foods, café culture and surrealist art. Bruges, however, is a medieval masterpiece that appears almost perfectly preserved – though usually mobbed by tourists – and Antwerp marries a grand cathedral and rustic boutique-filled back-streets with modern chic and fashion that makes it one of the trendiest cities in Europe. The country’s mixed heritage has made for a complex people with varied standards, and foreigners are often prone to the odd faux pas. This rarely matters as long as you are genuinely courteous. Flemish, Walloon and German groups differ in many ways but manners are important throughout Belgium. Be patient, too, as business procedures are often bureaucratic and pressing for quick resolutions will often only jeopardise a deal. A more subtle approach, however, appealing to personal feelings and allegiances, can often be effective.

Getting there Brussels is the main international airport, though there are others at Antwerp, Charleroi and Liege. Flying into Luxembourg is also an option. The European bus and train network provides international connections across the continent.

Getting around The train system is extensive, efficient and inexpensive. Buses are a slower alternative but no less comfortable. There is a widespread motorway network and driving is generally stress-free, except around major settlements during rush hours

Local information Language: French, Flemish/Dutch, German.

Time: UTC+1

Climate: Temperate. Warm summers, cool winters, rainfall throughout the year. Temperature: Max 24°C (July), Min 0°C (January). Rainfall: Max 60mm (December), Min 35mm (April).

Currency: Euro

Business etiquette: Business transactions are usually done in French or English. Suits should be worn. Punctuality and manners are important. It is considered rude to be confrontational – subtlety is valued over directness and logical reasoning over emotion.

Tipping: Tipping is not widely practised.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 1l of spirits or 2l of sparkling wine or 2l of non-sparkling wine or 2l of fortified wine; 50g of perfume; 250ml of eau de toilette; 500g of coffee; 100g of tea.

Safety: Incidence of crime is very low. Do not leave valuables in plain view on the seat of a car. Laws: Identification documents must be carried at all times.

Healthcare: Vaccination for tetanus required. Excellent medical facilities available, European citizens get free healthcare with an EHIC card. Travellers from beyond the EU may be charged and are advised to take out health insurance.

Socket type: Type E

Introducing

Voting now open for the 2019 Business Destinations Travel Awards!

It’s long been understood that a satisfied customer rarely tells a soul, while a single unhappy customer will tell the world.

As mobile technology and social networking become ubiquitous this has never been more true, with Facebook groups, Twitter hashtags and grassroots review websites making it easier than ever to convey dissatisfaction.

The Business Destinations Travel Awards, now in their eighth year, offer a rare opportunity to correct this imbalance.

Think back over your last year of travelling and consider which hotel exceeded your expectations? Which airline flew above and beyond the call of duty? And which cities did you promise yourself to revisit if you ever find a spare weekend?

The Business Destinations Travel Awards bring together those locations and travel facilitators that are guiding business travel into the future. To recognise achievement in the financial sector, Business Destinations works in partnership with the World Finance Banking Awards

Make your voice heard, and make your vote count.

Adelaide

Named for the German consort of King William IV, Adelaide is a refreshingly open city of wide public boulevards and lush greenery. The open spaces appear to have cultivated a liberal, forward looking populace from the start; early Adelaide was notable for its political progressivism, being the first Australian city to outlaw sexual and racial discrimination, ban capital punishment and recognise Aboriginal land rights.

Today it is more famous for its fine dining and renowned arts festivals, from the annual Fringe that sees in the spring to festivals of ideas, cabaret, writing and guitars. The first Australian Grand Prix was held here in 1985 and some of the biggest events on the international sailing and cycling calendars are also held here; not to mention the local obsession with cricket and Aussie rules football. There’s something for everybody in this remarkably open city, one that promised utopia from the outset and hasn’t hit too far from the mark.

Where to stay
Majestic Roof Garden and Crown Plaza Hotel are both in excellent locations, with good facilities and reputations for first rate service. If you’re planning a longer stay and want access to self-catering opportunities as well as hotel comforts, Adabco is good choice, though slightly further out.

Where to eat
Hutt Street is where many of the best restaurants are clustered, including La Trattoria which won the World’s Best Pizza prize in 2005. The Central Market is a great place to go if you want minimum fuss and maximum choice. There’s also a Chinatown with a good range of oriental cuisine.

What to see
The South Australian Museum is particularly worthwhile for its prehistoric and natural history collections, as well as ancient Egyptian art. Adelaide Botanic Garden is a tranquil beauty or you can cuddle a koala at Cleland Conservation Park.

Abu Dhabi


Its sister city of Dubai may draw all the yearning glances, but Abu Dhabi is where the real work gets done. More than half the wealth of the UAE is generated in this pleasant city that has an elegance born of uncanny clear thinking, which means it has avoided the traffic, pollution and other excesses of many major capitals around the world. It remains green and distinctly Arabic, despite the unmistakeable wealth on show – this is, after all, one of the richest places on earth.

That’s not to say there’s nothing ostentatious here; after all, it was little more than a remote fishing and pearling outpost as little as fifty year ago and its hard not to let that go to your head. But despite the riches that oil has brought, the pockets of luxury have done little to diminish the heart and soul of this sophisticated, multicultural but above all beautiful metropolis.

Where to stay
There is an overwhelming choice of luxury hotels, of which Danat Jebel Dhanna, with its stunning beach-side location, is probably the pick. Vision Hotel Apartments are excellent for longer stays, while The Park Inn is a more modest choice with a good reputation.

Where to eat
Abu Dhabi has an international menu and getting beyond your hotel restaurant is rewarding for both your palate and your wallet. Marakesh at the Millenium serves excellent Moroccan; the Lebanese Flower is a local institution and the best barbecue in town.

What to see
Explore the Corniche, the heart and soul of Abu Dhabi, or trace the city’s history at Heritage Village museum. Nearby Al Ain, a fertile oasis in a harsh and unforgiving desert, is worth a visit for both the stunning scenery and the camel market, which is the last of its kind in the Emirates.

Big success in a small land

Giyas Gokkent, chief economist and head of research of the asset management group at the National Bank of Abu Dhabi has been quoted as saying, “Growth is coming back,” while also admitting that excessively rapid growth in the past created vulnerabilities in the local economy. Those excessive growth rates, of 22 percent in 2007 and 36 percent in 2008, have declined to a more manageable four percent growth in GDP forecast by Standard Chartered Bank for 2011.

Underpinning that forecast is a rise in oil prices from a low of $33 per barrel in December 2008 to a projected average of $86 per barrel. But as the UAE continues to successfully diversify its economy away from a dependence on oil and gas, other factors need to be addressed. The property market remains a cause for concern, as the huge oversupply of housing and commercial premises in some areas waits to be mopped up.
Of greater concern is the shortage of liquidity in the financial markets to support new business ventures. A recent report by Standard Chartered Bank notes, “…bank loans still exceed deposits. The gap narrowed from Dh40.2 billion in June to Dh26.6 billion in July, but this was solely the result of increased deposits and flat credit growth on a month on month basis. The lack of credit growth is draining liquidity from the system.”

The recent financial crisis and its own focus on encouraging foreign investment has spurred the government to address some much needed reform of laws surrounding the private sector. Restrictions governing access to finance, workers’ visas, bankruptcy laws and property ownership are all now being addressed in an effort to establish the UAE as the largest FDI recipients in the GCC region.

At the recent opening of the Commercial Attaches and Business Councils Forum, Sultan bin Saeed Al Mansouri, UAE Minister of Economy noted the success of the government’s strategy. “Non-oil activity constituted 71 percent of our GDP in 2009. Today, growth and diversification in the UAE is led by traditional sectors such as trade, logistics, and tourism”, he said. “We offer businesses the advantage of 100 percent ownership in our free zones, in addition to clearly defined policies and procedures that enable business growth. The industries sector currently contributes 16 percent to our GDP and we have a stated goal of increasing this to 25 percent”.

This growth in enterprise and foreign investment is going to need skilled manpower, and most of that will come from abroad. Currently as many as 80 percent of the 8.1 million people living in the UAE originate from outside the country. The largest expatriate communities are from Iran, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, although it is estimated that up to 200 other nationalities are represented.

For many foreign workers, employment in the UAE was not always a positive experience. Former sponsorship laws that tied an employee to the employer often resulted in exploitation through delayed payment of wages, substitution of employment contracts, premature termination of services and excessive working hours.

These issues are now being addressed, with the first labour reforms to come into effect early this year. The new regulations govern the conditions and criteria of issuing work permits, making it possible for a foreign worker to terminate an existing service contract and enter a new one with another employer if it can be proven that the initial employer has not fulfilled its obligations, and abolishing the six month waiting period between contracts.

“Giving the private sector more freedom of movement will have automatic impact on employers by the way of preserving their interests through creating many options for recruiting skilful workers as per the supply-demand equation,” comments Labour Minister, Saqr Ghobash. “The new regulations constitute key elements of labour reforms which … will be in place in the near future.” These measures, he added, were designed to play a major role in advancing efforts towards creating an efficient labour market and sharpening competitiveness in the transformation towards a knowledge-driven economy.

But according to Neil Edwards, international business development manager at healthcare recruitment specialists, Your World, the UAE needs to do more to attract highly skilled workers in sectors like healthcare where they are competing with countries like the UK, US and Australia to attract staff. “Every single Gulf nation is building new hospitals but the need to staff them is not really being addressed and recent press reports in the region have suggested that the number of qualified nurses and doctors will have to double in the next decade. And with the UAE looking to take a lead in the market for medical tourism, the skill shortage can only get worse.”

What the region needs, suggests Edwards, is a multi-faceted solution with imported skills and experience working alongside new graduates. This fits with the UAE strategy of attracting high quality foreign universities to set up branch campuses or establish cooperative agreements with local universities, and making the education of Emiratis a top priority. Foreign universities already established include the American University, University of Michigan and the University of Wollongong. More recently, partnerships have been set up between local institutions with the UK’s Cambridge University and Switzerland’s University of Geneva.

As government cutbacks in other developed countries begin to bite, some of the UAE’s staffing problems may be resolved by actively recruiting abroad. According to Aberdeen and Qatar-based recruitment specialist, LA Recruitment, the effect of the downturn has created a pool of experienced jobseekers with a wide range of skills, many of whom are willing to consider a lifestyle change by moving overseas.

Those who make the move will benefit from a benefits package that typically includes accommodation, transport, travel allowance and utility bills – and no income tax. However, the cost of living is considered to be high, and foreign workers should be aware that they are expected to respect the cultural traditions of the country.

They will also find themselves living at the centre of one of the world’s political flashpoints. Situated as it is in close proximity to the leading Arab nations, Israel and the key shipping lanes of the Middle East, the UAE of necessity treads a very delicate diplomatic line.

For example, as of 2010 an estimated 100,000 Iranians live in the UAE and more than 10,000 Iranian companies do business there. Bilateral trade between the two countries was estimated at $15bn in 2009, making Iran one of the UAE’s largest trading partners. Mindful of these important economic ties, the UAE Foreign Minister was among the first international leaders to congratulate Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad on his re-election in 2009, despite criticism from Western allies.

However, despite strong bilateral relations with Iran and frequent moves to extend cooperation, the UAE is aware of a growing threat to the region if that country is successful in its bid to develop nuclear weapons.

In 2009, the Financial Times reported that the United Arab Emirates had seized an Iranian bound ship after discovering several containers of North Korean weapons including rocket-propelled grenades and ammunition allegedly ordered by a company linked to Iran’s Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps. Then in the summer of 2010 following the adoption of a United Nations Security Council Resolution strengthening sanctions against Iran, the UAE took measures against Iranian financial assets in the country, including the freezing of forty-one accounts.

The Emirati ambassador to the United States, Yousef al-Otaiba, recently summed up feeling in his country, during an interview at the Aspen Ideas Festival. Said Otaiba, “We cannot live with a nuclear Iran. I am willing to absorb what takes place at the expense of the security of the UAE.”

The new standard in business hospitality

The Address Hotels & Resorts, the hotel brand owned and operated by Emaar Hospitality Group, brings a new identity to the hospitality and service offering of Dubai and the region. All the five hotels located in Dubai offer meetings, conferences and events facilities in line with the growth in the business and MICE tourism sector of the city.

The Address portfolio includes: The Address Downtown Dubai (opened in 2008), The Address Dubai Mall (opened on September 9, 2009), and The Address Dubai Marina (opened on October 29, 2009). In addition, The Address Hotels & Resorts assumed the management of The Address Montgomerie Dubai in October 2009 and also manages The Palace – The Old Town, a luxury hotel in Downtown Dubai.

Since the opening of the first hotel in 2008, The Address Hotels & Resorts has redefined the hospitality sector of Dubai through innovative concepts and a focus on its three unique propositions – a distinct location advantage, superior guest service and tangible guest benefits.

Emphasising on business amenities in line with Dubai’s appeal as a regional hub for trade and enterprise, The Address hotels, in all, have over 65,000 sq ft of world-class meeting space. This has contributed to Dubai’s efforts to promote the city as the most competitive destination for meetings, incentives, conferences and exhibitions.

From organizing a power brainstorming session against the inspired backdrop of Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest, to hosting a high-profile product launch next to the world’s largest fashion destination or an informal gathering by the relaxed ambience of Dubai Marina or The Montgomerie Dubai golf course, The Address offers a spectacular array of choices for guests.

The Palace – The Old Town’s main conference room, The Royale, can cater for larger conferences of up to 250 persons. The Regal and the Palatine, which can accommodate up to 20 and 14 guests respectively, are the hotel’s boardrooms.

The Address Dubai Mall offers extensive space for meetings and events. The large ballroom can accommodate up to 650 guests, and can be divided into three sections. There are six additional rooms of varying sizes for meetings and events, which can host 15 to 40 persons.

The Address Dubai Marina offers the 900 sq m Constellation Ballroom with floor-to-ceiling windows that can accommodate up to 1,000 guests reception style. The hotel also has 15 additional meetings rooms. A fun Wii zone is also provided for clients to unwind during coffee breaks.

The Address Montgomerie Dubai has a state-of-the-art 115sq m meeting room, which can accommodate 30 guests in U-shape style, ideal for corporate meetings. It is also equipped for al fresco entertaining during the cooler climes, at The Lawn. The Academy Terrace can seat up to 200 guests banquet style and offers panoramic views of the Dubai Marina Skyline.

For those who travel on business frequently, The Address Hotels & Resorts, has partnered with Skywards, the frequent flyer programme of Emirates Airline, to reward guests staying at their hotels with Skywards Miles. Guests who book a room for a night or more on an eligible rate across The Address Hotels & Resorts receive Miles for their stay, they could also earn Miles for using various hotel amenities during their stay. Guests will receive one mile for every one US dollar spent across the hotel, offering them more and more chances to earn, on each visit.

All meeting amenities are bolstered by cutting edge technology including complimentary wireless internet access, and state-of-the-art audio-visual and communication facilities. Every property offers a conference concierge service and a state-of-the-art Business Lounge to ensure the flawless conduct of events.

The heart of La Defense

The four-star Renaissance Paris Hotel La Defense opened on 24th June 1996 and is located in the heart of the business district of La Defense.

Just next to the Grande Arche de la Defense, only 5 minutes from the Champs Elysees, the exceptional location of the hotel combined with modern technology will make your stay, whether for business or pleasure, more comfortable.

Access to the hotel is easy. Metro, Train and Buses are all conveniently located in the Grande Arche de La Defense station.

The Renaissance Paris Hotel La Defense has 327 spacious rooms and suites displayed on ten floors. All the rooms offer the comfort of a four star hotel combining luxury and modernity. There are superior category rooms as well as spacious and luminous suites, which will give you access to the Club Lounge with its warm and personalized welcome. Relaxing lounge offering breakfast in the morning, tea and coffee, soft drinks, snacks and newspapers throughout the day. The Fitness Center provides also a steam room and a sauna.

The Hotel is the perfect venue for groups and the dynamic and attentive team will guide you to plan your next event. When every detail must be perfect, you can count on the advanced facilities and expert meeting professionals to deliver a productive and successful outcome.

For the conferences and events, the Renaissance Paris Hotel La Defense offers 13 meeting rooms, 700m2 of total meeting space with natural daylight and broadband internet. “Les Jardins” meeting room is situated on the ground floor providing a total space of 280m² and “Les Châteaux” covers 284 m² with a maximum seating capacity of 240 persons.

Take a break and discover a typical French cuisine at la Brasserie. Considered one of the best places to lunch in the financial district of Paris, the Chef Jean Pierre Lepeltier serves stylish and innovative cuisine. Enjoy one of the fine cocktails on offer in the Colonial Bar during Happy After Work, running every day from 5:00pm to 8:00pm.

Located just a few steps from the largest shopping mall in Paris, “Les 4 Temps” is open seven days a week and more than 200 stores, so why not take the time out for some shopping? You can also visit to the famous roof of la Grande Arche de la Defense and take the panoramic lift where you will discover an exceptional view of Paris.

www.renaissanceladefense.com

Where to next for the euro?

We continue to live in highly volatile times with rapid and large movements in either direction when it comes to currency exchange rates.

Mid 2010, investors seemed to be convinced that the euro was the pariah of the western world’s currencies and was headed towards parity against the US$ [I must admit, that was an extreme forecast] and was going to hit €1.25/£1 and beyond against sterling.

Then quantitative easing came to the fore. The US made it clear that another bout of quantitative easing was very much on the agenda and the UK began to ponder such a possibility. Before any firm decision was made by either the Federal Reserve or the Bank of England, we saw a complete reversal in the euro’s fortunes.

Instead of the euro heading towards parity against the US$ we saw it go in the other direction and pass through US$1.40/€1 as it hit levels last seen 12 months ago. We also saw the euro-sterling exchange rate return to levels seen nine months ago, as it fell by nearly 10 percent in just over a month and hovered around the €1.13-1.14/£1 level. And as mentioned, no firm commitment had actually been made by the respective central banks to undertake further quantitative easing; it was, quite simply, the possibility of further quantitative easing taking place that caused the rapid change in sentiment.

When the Federal Reserve finally confirmed its programme of quantitative easing at US$600 billion the market reaction was muted. Not surprising, given that it was in line with expectations. In the UK, the Bank of England has made it clear that no decision will be made for a few months, so we are in holding pattern with current economic data supporting the view that there will be no need for further quantitative easing.

So some level of stability and clarity has returned for the US$ and for sterling.

And what of the euro?
We now have the Irish government bailout. I have highlighted previously that the debt problems in the euro zone; government and bank, are far from over and it was only a matter of time until we had round two [round one was the bailout of Greece last year].

It was interesting to see how, even though the Irish government didn’t have any immediate need to raise any more money on the markets, pressure was brought to bear by yields on Irish government bonds increasing significantly and by funds being withdrawn from the Irish banks – which meant that the banks working capital was being eroded. This forced the European Central Bank, certain Euro zone governments’ – most noticeable Germany, the UK government and the International Monetary Fund all having to ride to the rescue. On the back of this, the euro lost ground.

The trouble is that we still have two further rounds to go; round three is Portugal and round four is Spain, and the size of the problem is getting larger each time.
First time around the euro zone was able to sort out matters in Greece. With Ireland, the UK and the IMF had to be involved.  The size of the Portuguese debt problem is still just about manageable but when it comes to Spain the size of the debts are such that the resources of the ECB and the IMF will in all likelihood, be insufficient to cope.

And then I think we will be into the end game. Does the euro zone survive in its current form, does it have two “divisions” or does it have to break asunder?

Politically, I think there is still a belief that one size fits all. But to the rest of us, this assumption would appear to be nonsensical. The German and French economies continue to recover, while the economies of Greece, Ireland, Portugal and Spain continue to suffer. And those economies that suffer are not able to devalue their exchange rate, which would help to boost exports, as they have the euro.

What I have always found strange is that each government in the euro zone issues its own bonds – and as such they have their own interest rates and they have their own liability. But what happens if a country defaults? How can a euro not be worth a euro? I certainly don’t understand how this can happen. The German government seems to think that this is okay, whereas the markets take the different view and as such we could see some very interesting court cases if such an event ever occurred.

So a lot of unknowns – and as such, the only conclusion which seems sensible at this moment in time, is that the euro is going to be under pressure until the market is really convinced that the debt problems in Spain have been sorted out in a way that removes any doubts.
And that will take quite a while.

Charles Purdy is a director at Smart Currency Exchange. Tel: 0207 898 0541; www.SmartCurrencyExchange.com, www.SmartCurrencyBusiness.com

Rustic charm or best-selling nonsense?

The modern travel book often centres on a journey of misery and hardship, dragging us to faraway place of which we know nothing. So what is the business traveller to make of such bestselling nonsense?

This thought occurred to me on a long and sleepless flight over the Atlantic ocean,  cruising west towards my favourite business destination in the southern hemisphere: the incredible city of Sao Paulo.

Ten hours in the air gives you plenty of time to sample the inflight video and audio. In a moment of foolishness, I began listening to a modern ‘classic’ of the travel writing genre, hoping for some entertainment.

Some hope. I will spare you the tedious details, but the highlights included the protagonist choosing the slowest form of travelling from A to B available. In his view, this should preferably be a) dirty, b) smelly, and c) unreliable.

Taking the slow and smelly route, our bestselling hero managed to make an innocent girl cry, get lost a couple of times and get a stomach bug. How lovely.

I suspect that most of these works of poverty tourism are bought by people who love the idea of getting lost somewhere dusty, unhygienic and hostile but don’t really want to go there.

The road less travelled is a wonderful idea, in theory. In practice, it often leads you somewhere where you’ll get ripped off, sick, bored and confused. You don’t have to leave your hometown to achieve all this, so why waste valuable vacation time?

I might as well confess. I am a fan of the reliable mid-range hotel, with its beige walls, standard-issue maple-look furniture, its remote control, laundered sheets and slightly-disappointing city views. Excitement and innovation is great, but not when it comes to somewhere to get some sleep.

In a previous life, my work took me to the remote mountain ranges of Pakistan. The skies at night were as clear as any I’ve seen: a million stars and galaxies. Indeed, it was preferable to spend the nights stargazing than trying to sleep in our squalid, improvised accommodation.

The journey back to the capital, Islamabad, was a two-day drag in the back of a rusting Land Rover, a vehicle designed for neither comfort nor speed.

The half-way hotel was, I think, the worst I have ever stayed in: imagine a neglected public bathroom with bad lighting and a reception area attached, and you’ll begin to get the picture. Mr Bestselling Travel Writer would’ve loved it.

If only I could have scooped three or four stars our of the spectacular night sky and sprinkled them on that dump of a place. For my travelling companions and I, the only option was to split our remaining liquid rations and count the cockroaches.

A couple of years later came the final affirmation, for me, that the ordinary business hotel is a place to be desired, and not scorned.

In Northern Ireland one night, I sat blindfolded in the back of a speeding car. I was on the way to an arranged meeting with men who felt their community had been grievously wronged. There had been another bump in the road towards a lasting peace.

I need not have feared. At a farmhouse deep in the countryside, three middle-age men, polite and clearly exhausted by the armed struggle, offered me a mug of tea, a large glass of Bushmills and a long lecture on how the past could shape the future. They just wanted to get their message out to an indifferent world.

So it was that, around midnight, I arrived safely back at the Europa Hotel in the heart of Belfast.

President Clinton had stayed there on his visit to Northern Ireland, enjoying the same down-to-earth smile and welcome that every guest received, rain or shine. Maybe it was the Europa’s record as the most-bombed hotel in Europe that engendered such genuine warmth from the staff.

That night, The Crown pub, across the road from the Europa, had emptied out its patrons, and the party was continuing in the hotel’s bar, as it seemed to every night.

For once, I was more than happy to take the lift straight to a beige, businesslike room with clean cotton sheets.
And sleep.

Hywel Jones is a television producer who has travelled the world with the BBC and ITV. He now runs the international broadcast and corporate TV production company hi.tv. His favourite destination is San Francisco.

News flash: Deadly terrorism existed before 9/11

Here’s a scenario:

Middle Eastern terrorists hijack a U.S. jetliner bound for Italy. A two-week drama ensues in which the plane’s occupants are split into groups and held hostage in secret locations in Lebanon and Syria.While this drama is unfolding, another group of terrorists detonates a bomb in the luggage hold of a 747 over the North Atlantic, killing more than 300 people.

Not long afterward, terrorists kill 19 people and wound more than a hundred others in coordinated attacks at European airport ticket counters.A few months later, a U.S. airliner is bombed over Greece, killing four passengers. Five months after that, another U.S. airliner is stormed by heavily armed terrorists at the airport in Karachi, Pakistan, killing at least 20 people and wounding 150 more.

Things are quiet for a while, until two years later when a 747 bound for New York is blown up over Europe killing 270 passengers and crew. Nine months from then, a French airliner en route to Paris is bombed over Africa, killing 170 people from 17 countries.

That’s a pretty macabre fantasy, no? A worst-case war-game scenario for the CIA? A script for the End Times?

Except, of course, that everything above actually happened, in a four-year span between 1985 and 1989. The culprits were the al-Qaidas of their time: groups like the Abu Nidal Organization and the Arab Revolutionary Cells, and even the government of Libya.

First on that list was the spectacular saga of TWA Flight 847, a Boeing 727 commandeered by Shiite militiamen in June of ‘85. Even before that crisis ended, Sikh extremists would blow up Air India Flight 182 off the coast of Ireland – the deadliest civil aviation bombing in history. The Abu Nidal group then murdered 20 people at the airports in Rome and Vienna, followed in short order by the bombing of TWA Flight 840 as it descended toward Athens. Abu Nidal struck again in Karachi, attacking a Pan Am 747 with machine guns and grenades. Then, in December 1988, Libyan operatives planted the luggage bomb that brought down Pan Am 103 over Lockerbie, Scotland, in what would stand until 2001 as the worst-ever terror attack against a U.S. target. The Libyans later used another luggage bomb to take out UTA Flight 772 over Niger in September 1989.

I bring all of this up for a couple of reasons.If nothing else, it demonstrates how quickly we forget the past. Our memories are short, and growing shorter, it seems, all the time. Our collective consciousness seems to reinvent itself daily, cobbled from a media blitz of short-order blurbs and 30-second segments.

It is remarkable how we have come to place Sept. 11, 2001, as the fulcrum upon which we balance almost all of our decisions. As if deadly terrorism didn’t exist prior to that day, when really we’ve been dealing with the same old threats for decades. What have we learned? What have we done?

Well, have a look at the debased state of airport security today. We continue enacting the wrong policies, wasting our security resources and manpower. We have implemented many important changes since Lockerbie, it’s true (actually, many of the new protocols are post-9/11), but much of our approach remains incoherent. Cargo and packages go uninspected while passengers are groped and harassed over umbrellas and harmless hobby knives. Uniformed pilots are forced to remove their belts and endure embarrassing pat-downs.

Yes, I remember the underwear bomber. But where do we draw the line? Do we turn our airports into fortresses and surrender our freedoms and privacy, in the name of something that is ultimately impossible: total safety?

“What have we done?” is a chilling enough question. But here’s a scarier and more important one: What will we do when they strike again?

Because they will, and I shudder to imagine our response.

Look again at that list above. All of those tragedies, in a four-year span, with some of the attacks actually overlapping. Try to imagine a similar spell today. Could we handle even a fraction of such disaster?

In the 1980s we did not overreact. We did not stage ill-fated invasions of distant countries. People did not cease traveling and the airline industry did not fall into chaos.

This time, thanks to the wholly unhealthy changes in our national and cultural mind-set, I fear it will be different.

As an airline employee I worry greatly about this. If 2001 was any indication, we are doomed to overreaction that will ground planes and send Americans scurrying into their hidey-holes.

“The terrorists have won” is a refrain I don’t like using. It’s sensationalist and ignores inherent complexities. But for the moment, I can’t think of a better way of putting it.

Patrick Smith is an airline pilot, aviation expert and commentator

Portugal’s floating garden

Located 470 miles to the west of Morocco and 300 north of Tenerife in the Canary Islands, Madeira enjoys a wonderful warm climate the whole year round. For centuries, it was a particular favourite amongst British aristocratic travellers wishing to escape cold winters, long before travelling and winter breaks became the norm for less wealthy folk.

Madeira, or Portuguese for wood, is often described as the Floating Garden due to the luxuriant greenery and abundance of wild flowering shrubs that can be seen there.

The beautiful Bird of Paradise flower, or strelitzia is a firm favourite with visitors, who buy them in their thousands from the colourful flower shops.

It is a rugged, extremely mountainous, highly picturesque island, roughly rectangular in shape and measuring about 30 miles in length by 10 miles wide. The highest mountain on this extinct volcanic isle is Pico Ruivo, which is 1862 metres, or 6060 feet, above sea level.

Coaches can carry visitors up very winding mountain roads to over 5000 feet. Though not a journey for the feint hearted, views from the top on clear days are simply spectacular. Due to the height of the mountains, their peaks are also sometimes shrouded in mist or low cloud. This provides Madeira with valuable water for irrigation, as well as everyday household use.

The hard working Madeirans have, over the centuries, created a fantastic network of Levadas or irrigation channels alongside narrow paths, to carry valuable water from the highest peaks to the much drier valleys and coastal villages way down below.

The levadas are a fantastic feat of engineering and a tribute to the Madeirans dogged determination to make the best of their island. It is quite humbling to think of the heroic effort that must have gone into the creating of these levadas on the most difficult steep terrain imaginable, using the simplest of hand tools to break up the volcanic rock.

The scenery of the Madeiran mountains and rugged coastline is truly spectacular, particularly when the shrubs and trees are in flower. The beautiful Bird of Paradise flower, or strelitzia is a firm favourite with visitors, who buy them in their thousands from the colourful flower shops.

The Madeirans of old must have been as nimble as mountain goats and very tough, Today, the levada walks are amongst the favourite tourist attractions of Madeira, and one of the prime reasons that thousands return, year after year, to this gem of an island.