Author: Charlotte Gill

Colombia

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Shrouded in darkness for many years, the veils around Colombia are beginning to lift – and what a beauty she is. Bathed in equatorial sunshine, her interior is covered in rich Amazonian rainforest and dramatic Andean mountains, her Caribbean beaches are golden and pure and her cities are surprisingly refined postcolonial wonders.

She’s also in very fine health. A steadily growing economy throughout the late 20th century has been based on abundant natural resources and exports, including gold, petroleum, coal and coffee. Perhaps even more surprisingly, Colombia is the oldest democracy on the continent, with the two main political parties dating back to 1850.

Ironically, it is their long-standing political enmity which first led to the trouble; parliamentary squabbles turned to the paramilitary action and then the drug cartels stepped in. In 2002, though, after decades of failed negotiation, hard action was taken. The number of guerillas has since dropped by half and concentrated groups have been driven back into the jungle.
Now visitors are safe to explore South America’s largest concentration of megaliths and religious monuments at San Augustin, or the largest colonial fortifications at Cartegana. You can embark on jungle trek and discover the Lost City or make friends with whales just a short trip from the coast, explore the bustling markets of Bogota or free-wheel down the sides of the volcano. Then you can just let loose on the town and discover that Colombians really know how to party.

Getting there
Most international flights go to Bogota, though there are several other airports and package flights often go to Cartagena. Though Colombia borders five countries, only borders with Venezuela and Ecuador have navigable roads.

Getting around
Buses are the staple for public transport and have an extensive reach that even goes to small villages. There are no passenger train services, though there are flights between major cities.

Local information
Language: Spanish; various regional dialects
Time: UTC-5
Climate: Subtropical. Hot and wet throughout the year (cooler in highlands). Temperature: 20-30°C (January-December). Rainfall: Max 440mm (May), Min 50mm (January).
Currency: Peso (COP)
Business etiquette: Greet with a handshake. Meetings should be booked at least two weeks in advance and you should be punctual, though your host may keep you waiting. Trust is important so expect to spend time building a relationship; social activities and small talk can help to move a deal along.
Tipping: 10 percent in restaurants
Duty free: 200 cigarettes and 50 cigars and up to 500g of tobacco; Two bottles of alcoholic beverage; A reasonable quantity of perfume.
Safety: Check government advice before travelling and dangerous areas.
Laws: Photography of military buildings and personnel is illegal.
Healthcare: Vaccinations required for hepatitis A, tetanus and yellow fever. Health facilities in urban areas are good but in rural areas they are limited. Full medical insurance is vital and first aid kits should be carried if exploring the jungle.
Socket type: Type A

Cambodia

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Cambodia is a country of misty mountains, ancient pagodas, tropical sanctuaries and long-abandoned cave temples. It has also seen one of the bloodiest genocides of the twentieth century. After emerging from 30 years of turmoil in the late 1980s Cambodia has made great progress, but the legacy of the Khmer Rouge still lingers and it remains one of Asia’s poorest countries.

The most famous of Cambodia’s many treasures is the temple at Angor Wat, the largest religious building in the world and a strong candidate for the eighth wonder. The haunting ruins of 10th century Koh Ker are almost as impressive and the relics around Kampot will awake in you the spirit of Indiana Jones. In the south, the Cardomom Mountains are a marvel of a different kind, home to nearly 60 endangered species, including tigers, Asian elephants and pangolins.

The capital Phnom Penh has been dubbed ‘the Pearl of Asia’ and is rich in heritage and excitement. The streets are overrun with a delightful chaos that seems born of another century. The people are eager to make visitors feel at home and the younger generation in particular are keen to practice their English.

When it comes to business, though, remember that this is still a country learning to walk. Meetings may take hours with little decided and business affairs can drag on from weeks to months. Yet if you’re patient, helpful and above all polite, there is a great deal to love in this complicated country.

Getting there

International airports exist at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, though most routes are regional. From further afield, the cheapest connection is usually via Thailand. Overland border crossings are possible from Thailand, Laos and Vietnam, though most routes are aimed at promoting trade and few cater to tourists.

Getting around

The bus network is extensive and once-treacherous roads are improving. Boat travel along Cambodia’s 1900km of navigable waterways is also popular. No passenger train services operate. Car rental is cheap though Cambodian roads are notorious for poor maintenance and crazy drivers.

Local information

Language: Khmer

Time: UTC+7

Climate: Tropical monsoon. Hot all year round, monsoon from May-November. Temperature: Max 35°C (April), Min 22°C (January). Rainfall: Max 252mm (October), Min 5mm (January).

Currency: Riel (KHR)

Business etiquette: Shirt and tie on formal occasions, otherwise smart-casual. Timekeeping can be vague. Business cards are important.

Tipping: Tip according to personal preference.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes or tobacco equivalent; perfume for personal use; one opened bottle of liquor.

Safety: Avoid protests and try and steer clear of the Cambodia/Thailand border.

Laws: Drug offences incur heavy jail sentences. A permit is required to purchase cultural artefacts; infringements attract jail sentences between 6 months and 5 years.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for diphtheria, hepatitis A, malaria, tetanus and typhoid. Drink bottled water. Doctors and hospitals expect cash payment for services; health insurance is essential. Take essential personal medication when travelling as some supplies are not available in Cambodia.

Socket type: Type A, Type C or Type G

Bolivia

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Draped partially over a high Andean plateau and partially over the southern Amazonian rainforests, Bolivia is a bustling country full of contrast and energy. Travelling there is not easy – the elevated terrain and the poor quality roads make driving a nightmare, while public transport is extensive but unreliable due to regular strikes and the forces of nature.

Somehow, though, this hardly matters, because there’s so much to take in while you wait. La Paz, clinging to its dusty valley beneath distant, snow-capped peaks, seems at once oasis and anthill, drawing the eye in a hundred conflicting directions. Nearby, the sprawling markets of El Alto seem to dwindle into infinity and it’s easy to lose yourself amidst the myriad back alleys and side streets.

Just a few miles away, The North Yungas Road winds 80km to Coroico from the high glacial valley to subtropical paradise, dropping nearly 4000m in the process. Dubbed ‘the most dangerous world in the road’, it’s a mountain-bikers dream; four hours of downhill bliss winding down the side of an epic ravine, under a series of waterfalls, as eagles glide over the valley just a few feet from your shoulder.

At its base is another world entirely; a languid rainforest paradise. Yet you’ve only just begun to explore. What of the eerie Salar de Uyuni salt plains, the dinosaur tracks at Torotoro, or the enchanting beauty of Lake Titicaca? This is Bolivia; diverse, beautiful and superlative in every way.

Getting there

Airports at Santa Cruz and La Paz serve most South American cities; other routes are limited. Flights to La Paz are expensive due to altitude. Buses operate to all neighbouring countries; the roads to Argentina and Peru are best, others can cause problems.

Getting around

Buses are the backbone of an extensive public transport system. Trains, taxis, trucks and boats are also in use. Delays due to protests, floods or damaged roads are common. Driving is not recommended due to poor quality, dangerous roads.

Local information

Language(s): Spanish, Quechua, Aymara; 36 others.

Time: UTC – 4

Climate: Tropical. Hot all year round, heavy rain during summer. Temperature: Max 27°C (September), Min 21°C (June). Rainfall: Max 114mm (January), Min 8mm (June).

Currency: Boliviano (BOB)

Business etiquette: Shake hands and make eye contact when greeting. Business dealings are formal; use titles and surnames for address. Ensure your business card includes academic credentials and Spanish translation. Expect to spend time building relationship and trust.

Tipping: Not widely practised.

Duty free: 400 cigarettes and 50 cigars or 500g of tobacco; 3l of alcoholic beverages; new articles up to US$1,000.

Safety: Petty theft is common in tourist areas. Assault and robbery in unmarked taxis or when hiking without a guide is common. Thieves often work in teams for distraction.

Laws: Penalties for drug offences are severe. Excavation, collection of fossils and export of archaeological goods or national treasures are all illegal.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for hepatitis A, tetanus, typhoid & yellow fever. Medical insurance is strongly recommended; there are several private clinics in La Paz in case of emergency.

Socket type: Type A, Type C

Bermuda

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Notorious for the famous Bermuda Triangle, where countless ships have disappeared over the centuries, Bermuda was once known as ‘Devil’s Island’ by the sailors who knew its treacherous waters. Yet it is blessed with a gorgeous Caribbean climate, long strips of white beaches and sparkling blue oceans that make it a hedonistic paradise and a haven for many a wealthy banker or retiring celebrity. The coral reef which surrounds the island like a halo, once responsible for the ruin of so many unwary sea captains, is today prime diving territory replete with colourful sea life and dramatic wrecks.

For a quiet life, simply chill out in your chosen resort and indulge in some simple pampering, or get out and try some of the atmospheric inns steeped in local history. Sample the excellent local nightlife or, for a real party atmosphere, time your visit for the annual Cup Match, a two day orgy of food, beer and cricket at the end of July, or the music festival in September that showcases some of the very best of world jazz and soul.

Bermudans are jovial and friendly and will readily strike up conversations with strangers. There’s a distinct international feel as well, as the attractive climate and host of natural attractions, not to mention government incentives and lenient taxes, have made it a world-renowned centre for offshore business. The per capita GDP of $91,000 is the highest in the world and reflects the number of global illuminati that make their homes here.

Getting there

Direct regular flights leave from the US, UK and Canada only. Around 200,000 visitors arrive by cruise ship each year; most of these leave from the US.

Getting around

Buses and ferries are the staple of public transport, but many use scooters which are cheap to hire and don’t require a driving licence.

Local information

Language: English, Portuguese

Time: UTC-4

Climate: Subtropical. Hot summers, warm winters, rainfall throughout the year. Temperature: Max 30°C (August), Min 14°C (February). Rainfall: Max 140mm (October), Min 100mm (April).

Currency: Bermudian dollar

Business etiquette: Dress conservatively; suits are the norm. Make appointments a week or two in advance. Be punctual and well-mannered. Light humour may be appropriate in business meetings but a professional approach is expected. Concept of time is fluid and deadlines may be seen as flexible in many smaller businesses; larger institutions tend to be UK or US run and are much more deadline-oriented.

Tipping: Service is usually included in the bill.

Duty free: 200 cigarettes and 50 cigars and 500g of tobacco; 1l of spirits and 1l of wine

Safety: Low crime incidences.

Laws: It is an offence to appear in public topless or wearing a bathing suit top away from beaches and designated bathing areas. Drinking alcohol in public outside of licensed premises is illegal.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for tetanus. Medical facilities are good but costs are extremely high; medical insurance is essential.

Socket type: Type A, Type B

Sofia

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Sofia is often overlooked by the travellers who go straight for the sand and snow of Bulgaria’s excellent seaside and ski resorts, yet the compact capital boasts two World Heritage sites and remains the cultural heart of the nation. Archaeological evidence suggests there’s been a settlement here for over seven thousand years, making it one of the oldest in Europe, and hot and cold springs in the surrounding Sofia Valley have survived throughout that time.

Subsequent Thracian, Byzantine, Roman, Slav and Turkish influences have all left their mark on a thriving city that today has an air of 21st century affluence as it spills well beyond its 7th century walls. Rap music, sports cars and shopping malls will all be familiar sounds and sights, yet beyond the trend for conspicuous consumption there’s a still a great deal of genuine charm. It’s an eminently walkable city, perfect for exploration on foot, with a host of hidden stories well worth uncovering.

Where to stay
The Sofia Hilton and Radisson Blue both set high standards in service and comfort; if you prefer a friendly, boutique atmosphere, then head to Hotel Les Fleurs, where each room is comfortable and unique and the major shops and restaurants are a few minutes walk away.

Where to eat
Niky is a down-to-earth dining room serving the kind of home made Bulgarian food that will make you seriously question your mother’s finest. Beyond the Alley, Behind the Cupboard is a quirky, Art Nouveau delight even before you get to the fantastic international food.

What to see
900-year-old Boyana church houses the National Museum and is World Heritage protected – as is the must see Rila Monastery, impressive not just for its stunning, ancient architecture but for the drive there through some of the most beautiful countryside in Bulgaria.

Austin

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

One of the greenest in America, Austin also tops polls for the least stressful and most friendly city in the country. Southern hospitality meets a lively student culture, while Town Lake in particular is regularly host to top class performers as the city has styled itself the ‘live musical capital of the world’. The ‘Keep Austin Weird’ bumper stickers are perhaps the best measure of the local mindset – Austin is a city proud to be different.

There’s a great deal to explore beyond the city as well, as the local area is blessed with a number of hiking and biking trails. It’s not all green boulevards and leafy suburbs, though; this is a major centre for high-tech industry, often referred to as the Silicon Hills, with the University of Texas feeding a number of large internationals such as Dell, Apple and Hewlett Packard with a stream of skilled employees.

Where to stay
Austin has a great number of excellent mid-range hotels, including two Super 8 guesthouses and the Staybridge Suites near the airport. The AT&T Executive Education and Conference Centre is better catered to business users, however, as is the Wyndham Garden Hotel.

Where to eat
Much of the nightlife, including many of the city’s best restaurants, are clustered around Sixth Street. Ushi is a fantastic themed restaurant serving a range of Asian delights centred on a Japanese menu. Wink Restaurant is a favourite with locals and visitors alike serving a wide-ranging and eclectic mix of dishes.

What to see
The University of Texas has an impressive history and is well worth exploring. The Elizabeth Ney Museum is home to a fantastic collection of sculpture. In the early spring, many people visit often to witness the bats, an impressive sight as they fill the early evening sky.

Sri Lanka

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An island of golden, tropical beaches and tranquil tea plantations hidden in green mountain valleys, Sri Lanka is a cricket-obsessed island off the southern tip of India. Sinhalese, Tamil and Muslim influences are overlaid with the legacy of British rule. The classic countryside comes complete with ancient cities and colonial artefacts, not to mention busy urban oases that seem like compact pockets of chaos, where lively bohemian communities sit side by side with magnificent temples and classy resorts.

The country’s gorgeous sandy beaches are now almost fully recovered after the 2004 tsunami and many of the repaired developments are comfortably modern. There are some great walks from idyllic villages such as Ella or more adventurous wildlife safaris in Yala National Park, host to a number of elephants and leopards.

The thin land bridge that runs to Indian Tamil Nadu was breached during storms in 1480, yet its cultural significance has weathered the centuries. Conflict between the Tamil minority and Sinhalese majority led to the Sri Lankan Civil War, with on-off conflict from 1983 finally ending with the defeat of the Tamil Tigers in 2009. With peace comes hope for the future and Sri Lanka could be on the verge of a boom; the government is already in negotiations with several overseas companies to invest in infrastructure development projects.

Getting there

Bandaranaike, near Colombo, is the only international airport. Ferry services between Mannar and India are currently out of service but there are plans to resume in the future.

Getting around

Buses and trains provide cheap and extensive coverage, though both get extremely crowded; trains marginally less so. Cars hired usually come with drivers; self-drive cars are available.

Local information

Language(s): Sinhala, Tamil. English is often used in business.

Time: UTC+5:30

Climate: Tropical climate. Hot all year round, two monsoon seasons in spring and autumn. Temperature: 23°C to 31°C throughout the year. Rainfall: Max 360mm (May), Min 70mm (February).

Currency: Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR)

Business etiquette: Greetings vary depending on ethnicity and age; younger people will generally shake hands. Treat business cards with respect. Meetings can be very formal. Invest some time in small talk to help build a relationship. Decisions may take time as they must be approved by somebody of importance.

Tipping: Generous tips are expected, anything from 10-25 percent.

Duty free: 2 bottles of wine; 1.5l of spirits; A small quantity of perfume; 250ml of eau de toilette.

Safety: Conflict between government and LTTE has left a high degree of civil unrest and the risk of violent attack remains high, particularly on days of significance. Curfews may be imposed. Policing is hampered by poor infrastructure and violent crime is also a risk. Check government travel bulletins before travelling.

Laws: Strict regulation exists on the use of video equipment and mobile phones in some areas, as well as export of cultural antiquities.

Healthcare: Vaccinations required for hepatitis A, tetanus, Japanese B encephalitis, tuberculosis and hepatitis B. Free treatment is available at government hospitals. Some hotels have doctors.

Socket type: Type D, Type G, Type M

Bangkok

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

An electric train slides slowly through a dusty yard, inches from apparently deserted market stalls. Within seconds of its passing retractable canopies are being pulled back over the line and the place is alive with patrons as if nothing had interrupted their morning shopping trip. This is Bangkok, a place so tightly packed full of life and surprises that its no wonder it has a reputation as the most exciting city in Asia.

There’s a certain oriental mystique about some parts of Bangkok, particularly heritage sites such as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and a traditional Thai lifestyle persists in many of the city’s outer areas. But there’s an unmistakeably modern feel to the rest of it, and a miasma of music and dazzling neon advertise the host of lively bars, clubs and an unimaginable number of alternative entertainments that have made Bangkok a city of dreams.

Where to stay
Bangkok’s tourist influx has created a wide range of top hotels all competing in a number of areas; the Peninsula Hotel, Le Meridien and the Sheraton Grande are three of the best, all housed in superb modern buildings with a wide range of facilities and excellent service reputations.

Where to eat
Le Normandie has a reputation for fine French cuisine and some of the best food in Bangkok; it’s also a popular spot for business lunches. Nadimo’s Lebanese is something of a local institution with a strong following of repeat clientèle.

What to see
Both the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, the temple containing the Emerald Buddha, can be visited in the same afternoon on the banks of the Chao Phraya. A short day-trip out of town will take you to the Floating Market west of Bangkok, which is a breathtaking insight into Thailand’s cultural heritage.

Bilbao

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The Basque are reckoned by some anthropologists to be the oldest culture in Europe; long before the Romans came they roamed the hills to the south and east of Bilbao. The city itself wasn’t founded until the 14th century, but today it is the commercial, cultural and political capital of the Basque region, locally known as Euskadi.

An industrial hub and thriving city port for much of the twentieth century, the last decade has seen the city undergo an astonishing facelift that has seen it top the nominations for the inaugural Lee Kuan Yew World City Prize, given for liveability, vibrancy, sustainability and quality of life. The spectacular Guggenheim Museum, like an oversized Picasso of the Sydney Opera House, is the most famous of its landmarks, but there’s far more to this fresh-faced urban landscape infused with a rich and optimistic Basque culture.

Where to stay
Hotel Miro is comfortable and modern with a great location right next to the Guggenheim. The Gran Hotel Domine is well-designed with the kind of cosy atmosphere that will question your willingness to leave your room.

Where to eat
A Table has a variety of regional treats from France, Spain and the Basque country and a great cosy atmosphere to boot. Zortziko is an impressive Spanish restaurant with an adventurous menu venturing into molecular gastronomy with bizarre offerings like cod ice cream.

What to see
The Guggenheim dominates the cityscape and remains one of the most impressive modern buildings in Europe; the museum inside is pretty good too. The lesser known Euskal Museoa is a hidden gem full of fascinating historical and cultural insight into the Basque people. There are some great, sweeping views from the top of Mount Artxanda, which you can visit on the Funicular Railway or climb on your own two feet.

Wellington

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

The striking harbour and rolling green hills at the southern tip of Aotearoa’s north island make this a superior setting for the official capital of New Zealand. It may be smaller than Auckland but anybody on the street will tell you that this is the nation’s true cultural heart.

The many natural riches in Wellington’s back garden are more than just an adult playground, they’re a popular film production site that has earned the city the nickname “Wellywood” for the constant stream of camera crews passing through. The brightly coloured sails that scud across the harbour and the black tyres of the mountain bikes that tear up the myriad tracks outside the city are symbolic of the city’s wider love affair with the great outdoors.

Yet the continual competition with the larger sister city across the water ensures that there are plenty of indoor pursuits as well, from world class comedy and music to some fine museums and a growing international dining scene full of fantastic gastronomic treats.

Where to stay
The Bolton Hotel boasts first class, courteous and professional staff and superb, comfortable rooms as well. At Home Wellington really lives up to its name, full of character in a great location and a really homely atmosphere.

Where to eat
The casual yet modern Chow combines a variety of Pacific influences to create an eclectic yet satisfying menu. Martin Bosley’s Yacht Club Restaurant is quintessential Wellington, with fantastic flavours in a pleasant atmosphere.

What to see
Mount Victoria is a fantastic viewpoint for the city and the harbour. Spectacular Massey Memorial is built on the site of a fortified Maori settlement. The three and a half hour ferry trip to the South Island, across the Cook Straight and through the magnificent Marlborough Sounds, is an unforgettable experience.

Auckland

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Luscious, green volcanic ridges overlook the sprawling harbours of the ‘City of Sails’, the most populace city in New Zealand. There are more boats per person in Auckland than any other place on earth; hiring a yacht and exploring the coast delivers views as rewarding as the sunrise panorama from nearby Mount Eden.

The city’s centre could belong to any in the world, but get out into the inner city suburbs and discover distinctive Victorian villas and mingle with the sizeable Asian and Polynesian communities. There’s an open, invigorating feel about much of the city, perhaps because of the high proportion of greenery or the cool and moderate climate. The residents are constantly competing with Wellington for the title of King of Cool, too, so you shouldn’t lack for things to do.

Where to stay
The Barrycourt, Auckland City and Oaks Smartstay are all good choices for business travellers with good facilities, spacious rooms and excellent locations within walking distance of the centre. The five-star Langham is a more luxurious choice further from the CBD, while the Westin Auckland Lighter Quay has a great setting on the waterfront.

Where to eat
Most restaurants in Auckland are clustered around Central City, where there is a diverse selection. The French Cafe and the Grove are both sophisticated dining rooms serving well-presented, top class food. Vinnies Restaurant is a more unassuming choice but no less satisfying.

What to see
Head to the top of the Sky Tower, the tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere, for great views over the city. Take a spin on the water in a hired yacht and be sure to try one of the many cultural and eco tours on offer; Coast to Coast, Milestone, TIME unlimited and Potiki are just for the names that come highly recommended.

Chiang Mai

Posted on by Charlotte Gill

Bangkok may be the economic heartbeat of the nation, but Chiang Mai is the culture centre of a more authentic Thailand. Older than the capital and littered with ancient pagodas and golden temples, this is also the place to shop for handcrafted goods or explore Thai traditions past and present.

Chiang Mai is at its most spectacular during November’s Loi Kratong, when thousands of floating lanterns are set upon the river even as many more are launched into the air, illuminating the capital with dazzling golden light like a constellation of fireflies. The picturesque mountains that surround it could have fallen straight out of a Japanese watercolour and can be most readily explored from the back of an elephant.

Thais and travellers alike idealise this gorgeous walled city as a throwback to another time but beneath the covers it remains a modern and well-developed metropolis. Not only are there hundreds of years of heritage, but plenty of mod cons too.

Where to stay
U Chiang Mai has a great location in the Old City while retaining a contemporary and unpretentious interior with a range of modern and high-tech facilities. Puripunn Baby Grand is cosy but well-equipped and thanks to its small size the personal service is superb with attention paid to every detail.

Where to eat
Kitchen Hush has a great Japanese menu and a stylish, oriental interior, while Tengoku de Cuisine also services excellent Japanese food. Good, authentic Thai is served at Gekko Garden.

What to see
There are over three hundred ornately decorated Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai, including Wat Phra Singh and Wat Chiang Man. Chiang Mai Old Town is dripping in well-preserved history and is a lovely place to wander for a day. If you’re tired of heritage, try some culture with a Thai cookery course.