The majestic Atlas Mountains are a fitting backdrop for this impressive Imperial city, whose ancient walls of mud and straw rise like molten gold from the surrounding red plains. Swaying palms line sweeping plazas pulsing with merchants and street performers, while the ancient mosques are as resplendent today as centuries before.
There’s a lot to admire here, if you get the chance, but itineraries have a habit of flying out of the window. Marrakech has a way of taking over, seducing you with her endless labyrinth of covered markets and enticing alcoves, hidden oases and unexpected treasures.
Buy a bottle of water and they’ll try to sell you a snake; politely refuse and you’ll be invited to share a drink instead. The only way to experience Marrakech for real is just to go with the flow. Be warned, however; that can feel like paddling a pedalo into a grade five rapid.
Where to stay
The Riad Noir d’Ivoire staff are well used to the disorientation that many guests experience upon arrival; the advice and care given is second to none. The Riad Kniza compliments a greta location with superb service and a fantastic in-house restaurant too.
Where to eat
To find Yacout, you’re led by lantern-light through the dusky maze, and atmospheric sense of anticipation this generates is the perfect sauce for the delicious traditional cuisine. Le Restaurant du Riad Monceau serves up a similarly superb menu, but in a more refined and modern setting.
What to see
The Medina of Marrakech is the medieval heart of the city, a World Heritage Site that is as memorable for its atmosphere as for its stunning ancient architecture. Less well known are the Saadian Tombs, burial ground for over 60 of the Saadians and an eerie counterpoint to the chaos outside.
