Take one sandy, barren wasteland, and pump full of oil. Leave to simmer for fifty years et voila; one pulsing, modern metropolis of dizzying skyscrapers and thriving city streets. That’s the recipe for Riyadh, a heaving conurbation of nearly five million citizens that was little more than a provincial town of 80,000 as recently as 1950.
There’s no doubt that the natural riches on which the city is founded have caused considerable change, but what’s really fascinating about this fickle city is just how contradictory some of those changes can feel. The religious police are still out in full force within the city borders, but the Saudi business ventures have simultaneously required a new degree of cultural tolerance. Pious preaching of religious doctrines and overt ostentation fuelled by financial wealth seem to have formed an uneasy alliance; such a strange cultural cocktail makes for enthralling viewing for the western voyeur.
Where to stay
Four Seasons, Marriott and Radisson all have highly rated hotels within the city limits. Al Faisaliah Hotel is Arabic run but comes with five-star facilities and has an excellent record for service and hospitality.
Where to eat
Get great grilled Lebanese food at Al-Nafoura or try something hot and steaming at Sizzler House on Tahlia Street. Mama Noura is a good introduction to Middle Eastern Cuisine, notable for its excellent shawarma and barbecue.
What to see
The recently renovated Masmak Fortress, first stormed by King Abdul Aziz, is a fascinating insight into the history of the city; follow it up with the Murabba Palace, an impressive behemoth built by the aforementioned royalty. For a real taste of Riyadh, head to the Souq al-Thumairi market, whether to shop or just soak up the atmosphere. Be aware that many sights will close during prayer times.
