Where to stay
Stockholm, a city built across 14 islands in the wider Stockholm archipelago, makes the most of its abundance of waterfront. Take advantage of this by staying at the Grand Hôtel Stockholm. It’s located on Norrmalm – with views across the water to Gamla Stan, the city’s historic centre – and has been providing luxurious accommodation since 1874. The five-star hotel boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant, one of the city’s hottest bars, and a selection of opulently decorated rooms.
What to eat
Take a stroll through the Royal Game Park – the Djurgården if your Swedish pronunciation is better than ours – and seek out Rose’s Garden (Rosendals Trädgård). Comprising a plant shop, general shop and café, Rose’s Garden cooks simple dishes with ingredients grown on site. Food is served in a selection of ramshackle greenhouses that are well heated against the chill. It is the perfect location for an afternoon fika – a sort of coffee-and-cake break, which is a Swedish institution.
Places to drink
Stockholm doesn’t lack bars, although travellers may baulk at paying over £5 for one beer. The city’s trendier youth tend to congregate on the southern island, Södermalm, at the bars off Götgatan. The Cadier bar at the Grand Hôtel enjoys views over the harbour and Royal Palace is perfect if you like sunsets with your champagne. For a non-alcoholic winter warmer try the Chokladkoppen café on Gamla Stan. Their specialities are bowls of delicious hot chocolate and they’re open ’til 11 most nights.
Things to see
The Moderna Museet – Stockholm’s modern art museum – is situated on its own island and houses an impressive permanent collection and well-curated temporary exhibitions. From the modern to the historical: the Vasa, a huge warship built in the seventeenth century, sank a kilometre into its maiden voyage by virtue of an overloaded deck and insufficient ballast. It’s now housed in the spectacular Vasa Museum, after being raised from the harbour in wonderful condition in the 1960s.
