There’s a compelling eclecticism about the city of Riga, a city on the verge of a glorious new age of prosperity since the end of the 90s. See Gothic spires next to funky, postmodern street cafes, and fill your boots with the bounties of a pulsing urban scene where fine cuisine is found on Art Nouveau terraces and a new forest of glittering skyscrapers peer down on a perfectly preserved old town that sits snugly on the World Heritage list.
During the summer this is a thriving party capital, full of Latvians, expats and visitors alike all living it up in Riga’s rapidly expanding collection of entertainment venues and night-clubs. In the darker months it transforms into a winter wonderland and the white dusting on the roofs creates a picturesque snow-dome feel. Saunas are entrenched in the local culture and well worth experiencing if you get the chance; or head out for a spot of ice fishing and a chance to really clear your head.
Where to stay
The Grand Palace is petite and indulgent, a great atmospheric place to stay. Hotel Berg is another great boutique that’s small in size but big in character. Radisson SAS Daugava is a slightly grander alternative, offering a free airport shuttle and incredible views.
Where to eat
The superb Latvian food at Rozengrāls is served in an equally enchanting basement environment. Le Crabe is another with an old town atmosphere and great local menu. Juffin’s 12 combines simplicity and invention, mixing European and Oriental flavours with great effect.
What to see
A tour of the old town should be your first stop, with St Peter’s and St John’s churches, Town Square and Dome Square some of the highlights. The Latvian War Museum has a fascinating collection in the middle of picturesque Bastejkalns Park.
