On an isolated rock constantly contorting between ice and fire, Reykjavik appears to thrive against the odds with weird and wonderful citizens that have one foot in the ancient Viking sagas and the other in the cities trendy clubs and bars. Indeed, the Friday night runtur – a wild pub crawl around the compact city centre – is often an experience of epic proportions.
It can sometimes be a surprise to remember just how far it is to the next habitable land – Greenland is its nearest neighbour but then it’s nearly 1,000 miles to the Hebrides of Scotland – or just how small it really is – it has about half as many citizens as the London borough of Camden. But this is far from a closed community, and the stunning natural setting has inspired a colony of romantics and dreamers. Spend any time at all here and you will grow to love them; but you’ll also start wondering if there’s something in the water.
Where to stay
The Reykjavik Hilton is as quirky as the city, yet at the same time peaceful and accommodating with exemplary levels of service. The Hotel Holt is equally hospitable, with an older, more classical vibe that nevertheless smothers you in comfort.
Where to eat
T˛rír Frakkar is the best place to sample fine yet authentic Icelandic food, which actually draws on multitudinous Scandinavian and wider international influences. Fjalakötturinn combines subtle European and Asian flavours and also boasts the best wine cellar in town.
What to see
The Saga Museum is a great place to explore the key moments in Icelandic history. Iceland’s interior is one of the world’s most unique and exciting landscapes; a drive around the Ring Road (start and end in Reykjavik) is an otherworldly experience not to be missed.
