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National treasure

Washington DC might not be quite what it seems, discovers Emma Holmqvist

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Serving up high voltage drama laden with Masonic conspiracy theories from the very first extract, Dan Brown’s new bestseller, The Lost Symbol, has lent Washington DC a new air of glamorous mystique, and even a spine-chilling sense of magic. The book, which sold more than a million copies on its first day of release, is set entirely in America’s capital, and hoards of Dan Brown aficionados have started to descend on the city.

Following the exhilarating footsteps of fictional hero Robert Langdon, they jostle for space with the city’s high concentration of business-folk.

Langdon’s perilous and mystery-ridden tour of the District lasted for only 12 hours, yet he crammed a surprising amount into his short visit, scarcely leaving a Masonic cornerstone unturned in his wake. Chances are that you’ll get to explore the city under less stressful circumstances than Langdon, and you have all the reason to linger: there are some spectacular experiences to be had, not least in terms of architecture.

The man credited with the distinctive design foundations of Washington DC and who envisioned its Baroque silhouette is the French architect and city planner Pierre-Charles L’Enfant. Accompanied by Major General Lafayette, L’Enfant first arrived in the colonies as a military engineer during the American Revolutionary War.

In 1791, President Washington commissioned the Frenchman to plan the layout of the new capital city. Although he was replaced a year later by Andrew Elliot, who stepped in to revise the plan, L’Enfant is still the architect widely associated with the city’s design, which is signified by broad avenues, attractively radiating from rectangles and circles.

A mystical attraction
However one feels about the quality of Dan Brown’s writing, the author’s latest offering should be welcomed for calling attention to some of the city’s more obscure sites. The world-famous White House Quarters – which attracts about 5,000 visitors a day – might face some serious competition in years to come.

By no means an anonymous building, and as compelling as the White House, is the US Capitol. George Washington – dressed in full Masonic attire – laid the cornerstone of the building in 1793, and the site is said to be rife with references to and symbols of Freemasonry. Further intrigue can be discovered in neighbouring Virginia, at the George Washington Masonic National Memorial. This Egyptian-style monument houses a large Masonic library and an assortment of George Washington treasures, including his family bible and a collection of items used during his funeral. There’s even a lock of his hair on display.

Next, steer your step towards the building described in the prologue of the The Lost Symbol: the House of the Temple. This magnificent piece of architecture is widely considered one of the most beautiful buildings in the world, and while officially serving as the headquarters for the Scottish Rite of Freemasonry and office hub for the Sovereign Grand Commander, it also encompasses a museum and a Masonic library.

The next landmark on the list is hard to miss – the Washington Monument is the tallest structure in the world built entirely of stone without any metal or mortar to support it. Shaped like an Egyptian obelisk, it stands 555 ft 5 1/8” tall. Another must-see gem, albeit much smaller in scale, is the beautifully lush Botanic Garden. It was established in 1820 but moved to its present location in 1933, and today it encompasses cthe Conservatory and the National Garden, as well as the outdoor display gardens set within Frederic Auguste Bartholdi Park.

After scrutinising some of DC’s best features at close range, it may be tempting to see the city from high above. To get the best view, many locals maintain there’s only one position to consider – the top of the clock tower of the Old Post Office Building. Unless you prefer to take the elevator to the top of the aforementioned Washington Monument, of course­ – there you’d get a view spanning over thirty miles. Should you suffer from vertigo and prefer to stay put on the ground, a stroll down the National Mall itself provides quite a heady experience, and setting off after dark brings the journey an added element of grandeur, or if you prefer, a sense of eerie romance.

A city for strollers
With its foolproof street system and wide sidewalks, Washington DC is an excellent city for walking. It’s so pedestrian friendly, in fact, that it was ranked the best city in the nation for walking by the Brookings Institution in 2007.

If you’re not big on promenading, however, the city also boasts a very usable public transport system, the crowning glory being the sophisticated Metrorail, followed closely by the eminent Circulator buses. Should you still prefer to hail a cab, you’re in the right place ­– Washington DC has the highest number of taxis per citizen in the nation; it is, fundamentally, a city with an abnormally high concentration of busy professionals. Significantly, all three branches of the federal government of the United States are located in the District, and a substantial chunk of the population works for the federal government. Many of the major Fortune 500 companies also have offices in the city, where they share space with other leading financial institutions and an array of companies in the publishing, printing and telecommunications industries.

The hub of espionage
Once you’ve chosen your means of transportation and explored the District’s rich plethora of worthy building and sites, set some time aside for other attractions. The city’s museums have a lot to offer, and there’s something to suit every cultural leaning. But for Langdon-esque mystery and conspiracy, a visit to the International Spy Museum is recommended. This is a one-of-a-kind establishment solely dedicated to spying gear and tradecraft. The museum’s permanent exhibition showcases the largest collection of international espionage artefacts ever placed on public display; if your trip to Washington DC turns out to
be anywhere near as adventurous as that of Dan Brown’s hero, you’ll need all the help you can get.

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